The Epicurean Scribe

Central Coast Day Trip: Templeton, Calif.

2011-05-10T14:21:00.000-07:00

This Paso Robles neighbor is worth a day trip. Read on to discover the underdog of California's Central Coast.

Why go now? This often-overlooked Central Coast destination is brimming with small-town charm and newfound epicurean appeal.

The sweet spot: Catch May’s lingering-green hills before summer’s triple digits hit.

Where it is: 6 miles south of Paso. Population: 6,900. Dress Code: Cowboy boots and a reuseable shopping bag

Getting there: Templeton is about 160 miles south of San Jose and 211 miles north of Los Angeles, in San Luis Obispo County. (Map)

Namesake: Named after Templeton Crocker, the grandson of Central Pacific Railroad co-founder Charles Crocker, Templeton is the only town along the El Camino Real that isn’t named after a saint.

Most popular Saturday morning destination: Templeton Park is home to the most bountiful—and beautiful—farmer’s market in the county. (Crocker and 6^th St.; Sat. 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m.)

Where to fuel up for the day: Joebella Coffee Roasters serves expertly-roasted, organic, fair-trade coffee and tea. (1121 Rossi Rd., suite C; 805/461-4822)

Eat a sandwich named after a winemaker
Famished wine tasters will find much-needed respite at Farmstand 46 (3750 Highway 46; 805/239-3661), where a bright array of artisan sandwiches, salads, and wood-fired pizzas are on offer. The staff works diligently to use local, organic, sustainable ingredients whenever possible, many of which are grown in Farmstand’s estate garden. Next-door neighbor, Four Vines winery, makes choosing beverages a no-brainer.

Make Your own Goat Cheese
Tucked away along a bucolic stretch of Templeton backcountry, Happy Acres Family Farm (1955 Templeton Rd.; 805/434-7580) is a new Central Coast treasure that produces a marvelous assortment of farmstead goat cheeses, goats milk-based body lotions (highly recommended), organic produce, and farm-fresh eggs. Nearly 200 goats—all known by name—are cared for by co-owner Stephanie Simonis, whose adoration for her animals is tireless and charming. Special classes invite guests to participate in the goat cheese-making process by milking their own goat and flavoring their own cheese blend.

Clavo and Concerts in the Park
Locals eagerly anticipate the outdoor concert season in Templeton Park (Crocker and 6th St.; Weds. 6:30 - 8:30 pm, 805/434-4900), where they gather beneath a canopy of ancient oaks to picnic and listen to live music. Nearby, Clavo Cellars (315 S. Main St.; 805/226-0174) offers pre-concert appetizers and an excellent selection of picnic-worthy wines, like an expertly-balanced 2008 Grenache Rose ($18).

Dine in a Central Coast Standout
Restaurant owner Ian McPhee was a modern pioneer of sorts when he chose little-known Templeton as the home for McPhee’s Grill (416 S. Main St.; 805/434-3204) in 1994. Today, McPhee’s is one of the most noteworthy restaurants on the entire Central Coast, offering a menu of exceptional New American fare (or whatever Chef Ian is in the mood for), such as ancho duck and cheese quesadillas, and roasted quail with mushroom caponata. At 125 years-old, the building that houses McPhee’s is the most historic in town.

Sip and Savor
15c Degrees Wine Shop & Bar is indispensable to wine lovers looking for a superb selection of global wines and hard-to-find, Central Coast favorites. Owner and Certified Sommelier Ali Rush Carscaden offers warm, educated advice about the over 500 wines here, as well as the exceptional tapas-inspired bar menu. Generous cheese plates, imported meats, savory paninis, and a host of microbrewed beers are all on offer. (1121 Rossi Rd., suite A; 805/434-1554)

Pier 46 Seafood
Sustainability is the emphasis at Pier 46 Seafood shop and restaurant, where customers relish some of the county’s highest-quality seafood. In addition to the shop’s excellent selection of freshly-caught fish, shellfish, oysters, and edible accoutrement, Pier 46 offers an extensive restaurant menu, including first-rate fish and chips, robust cioppino, fish tacos with pepperjack cheese, and tender calamari served on toasted sourdough. (1131 Rossi Rd.; 805/434-1950)

See the Countryside
Flanked by gnarled oaks, wildflowers, and orange and avocado groves, Santa Rita Road is a hidden jewel. At its highest point, you get 360° views of Paso wine country and the Pacific Ocean.

Stay
An authentic wine country getaway can be found at Venteux Vineyards (pronounced vin-too), where visitors can not only sample the winery’s selection of bold, Rhone-inspired wines, but also find overnight accommodations in a serene vineyard setting. The small Farmhouse-style inn features rooms that are both chic and charming, and come accompanied by gourmet breakfasts on the expansive wraparound porch. (Rooms start a $245; 1795 Las Tablas Rd.; 805/369-0127)

In Thailand: Dodging Death for Frogs Legs & Eggplant

2010-09-20T13:41:00.000-07:00

Resting silently beneath the crowd like a slumbering serpent, a single train track winds its way through the heart of Mae Klong food market in Thailand’s small province of Samut Songkhram. Flanked heavily by bushels of crisp winged beans, water spinach, bulbous knobs of jack fruit, and palettes of artfully-arranged fish gawking in unison, the narrow track serves not only as a place for vendors to display their wares, but also as the market’s main walkway. Until, that is, until the train makes an appearance.

Today, I am at Mae Klong market, not only feast my eyes on Thailand’s edible bounty, but also observe a phenomenon that some viewers on YouTube have deemed “impossible,” “a hoax,” or “genius video manipulation.” I follow the train track deep into the crowd, where hordes of hurried shoppers choreograph an impromptu dance of lively bargaining, shuffling shopping bags, and the occasional stumbling over a stray cat.

I watch baby eels squirm in a blue plastic bucket. I observe that frogs-on-a-stick are a popular lunch item. I photograph a mountain range of curry pastes as red as the Sedona desert.

Suddenly, my tour guide grabs my arm and parks me one foot from the train track. “Stay here,” he instructs, his black eyes gleaming like obsidian. I am about to witness something extraordinary.

As I struggle to see further down the congested track, I detect the faint wheeze of a train whistle in the distance. “Rót fai!” a woman urgently calls out. "Train!" A frenzied electricity fills the air as vendors hastily pull their wares away from the track. (Apparently, it is a mere eight inches to the safety zone.) Then, in a Murphy bed-like fashion, the overhead awnings fold upward and back, and my face is instantly flooded with sunlight. The train whistle grows louder. Within a mere 60 seconds, the track has become a no man’s land, a blank canvas of bolts and steel that disappears into the distance. A tourist lingers between the rails and is swiftly scolded by a man hauling his eggplants to safety.

The safety zone beside the track is now at full capacity, and I find myself squished between two giggly girls in matching school uniforms on one side and a huge tub of shrimp on the other. The ground begins to vibrate. Suddenly, a bright yellow train car bursts into view and I suck in my gut thinking that the extra inch of space I create might save my life. I watch with a combination of amazement and horror as the train glides right in front of our toes and noses. And then, it is gone.

In a fury of organized chaos, the vendors quickly push their wares back towards the track, the awnings unfold, the track floods with people, and barely a minute later, it is business as usual.

Operated by the State Railway of Thailand, the Mae Klong Railway stretches from Bangkok’s little-known Wong Wian Yai station to Samut Songkhram (approximately 45 miles to the southwest). Prior to the construction of the railway in 1904, locals regularly gathered in Mae Klong to sell fresh produce and seafood. When plans for the new railway revealed that the train would drive straight through their gathering place, a lack of available space convinced the locals to stay put, and no law could force them to move.

Today, the train continues to run through Mae Klong food market up to eight times a day, seven days a week, and the locals don’t seem to mind. Many stay because of the inexpensive rent. Those wishing to ride the train from Bangkok can do so, but should be advised that the train track disappears abruptly at the Tha Chin river in Samut Sakhon (Mahachai), so you must exit the train and travel by ferry to the other side of the river (Ban Laem). There, you can catch your connecting train to Samut Songkhram (Mae Klong market).

If time or effort is a concern, Mae Klong market can also be reached by car or bus (the Damnoen Saduak line from Bangkok’s southern bus terminal). For more information, visit the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s website at www.tourismthailand.org.

Travel Guide: Edinburgh, Scotland

2010-09-16T12:24:00.000-07:00

Often considered one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, Edinburgh (pronounced Edin-burra) is virtually two cities in one, with Princes Street acting as the dividing line between medieval Old Town and 18th century New Town. The sum of these two parts makes up Britain’s second most-visited city, where visitors come to explore the majestic Edinburgh Castle, world-class museums, lush greenscapes, and the largest arts event in the world: The International Festival. With a growing menu of first-rate restaurants and cutting-edge hotels, Scotland’s capital city is a place you will want to return to again and again.

HOTELS

From old-world elegance to fashionista-inspired sophistication, Edinburgh’s hotels offer something for everyone. Myriad mid-priced boutique hotels have opened at a record pace, not only expanding lodging options, but also giving guests exceptional in-house eateries and hip bars, to boot.

Hotel du Vin
Offering a seamless blend of Scottish warmth and French sophistication, Hotel du Vin is one of Edinburgh’s most desirable boutique hotels. Nestled beside the Bedlam Theater in Old Town, the 1696 site once housed an asylum where the famous Scottish poet Robert Ferguson took his last breath. Today, the property features 47 guest rooms—including 20 studios and 6 suites— each with Egyptian cotton sheets, a plasma TV, monsoon-style shower, healthy-sized toiletries, and a selection of complimentary DVDs. Warmer weather beckons both guests and locals to take advantage of the enclosed outdoor patio (nearly a Scottish anomaly), which offers a cigar bothy, an extensive wine list, and cuisine from the exceptional Hotel du Vin Bistro. Those looking to escape the Scottish chill, however, may choose to warm up at the whisky bar with a dram of Scotland’s finest.

Address: 11 Bristo Place
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal code: EH1 1EZ
Phone: 0131 247-4900
Website: www.hotelduvin.com/edinburgh

Ten Hill Place
Doctors will feel right at home during their stay at Ten Hill Place, a hotel owned by and adjacent to Edinburgh’s Royal College of Surgeons (the oldest medical incorporation in the world). Of course, everyone will feel welcome at this 78-room property in Old Town, which features 49 executive rooms, 26 superior rooms and 4 Skyline suites. Earth tones interspersed with plum, sage, and fuchsia create an inviting palette in each room, alongside king-size beds, allergy-free duvets and pillows, free broadband (when using your own laptop), hair dryers, personal safes, and complimentary Scottish shortbread. View-lovers will adore the Skyline suites, which offer stunning views of Arthur’s Seat and the Firth of Fourth. Those seeking a convenient bite will be pleased with the in-house restaurant and bar, where a menu of reasonably-priced fare (including an extensive breakfast buffet) fits the bill.

Address: 10 Hill Place
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal code: EH8 9DS
Phone: 0131 662 2080
Website: www.tenhillplace.com; reservations: reservations@tenhillplace.com

Hotel Missoni
Those seeking an unconventional Scotland experience will fall madly in love with Hotel Missoni, a vibrant, modern outpost in a town full of tradition. Missoni, a famed Italian design house, conceived the hotel’s interior, utilizing its trademark combination of stripes, geometrics, fun patterns, and bold colors. Thankfully, the colorful modern furnishings don’t compromise on comfort, with each of the 136 rooms (including 7 suites) offering an array of amenities, including complimentary newspapers, a fabulous De’Longhi pod coffee maker, plush robes, two items of laundry cleaned, internet access, and an iPod connection. Even the bathrooms are dramatic, with their iridescent tiling, vibrantly-hued walls, and glycerin soap in perhaps violet or lime green—not to mention their excellent rain showers. Enjoy a cocktail at the space-age lobby bar before heading to Cucina, the in-house restaurant, which features a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine. How apropos.

Address: 1 George IV Bridge
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal code: EH1 1AD
Phone: 0131 220-6666
Website: www.hotelmissoni.com; info.edinburgh@hotelmissoni.com

Elmview
Situated in an attractive residential neighborhood just 1/2 mile from Princes Street, the Elmview bed and breakfast offers exceptional value in a quaint and comfortable setting. Rumor has it, the oldest golf course in Scotland lies directly across the street, and while it has been reduced to only a 36-hole “pitch and putt” course, guests are encouraged to borrow a club and practice their swing on the 500-year old site. At Elmview, guests can choose from five uniquely-decorated rooms, each with a king-sized bed, sleek bathroom with heated towel rail, personal safe, complimentary sherry, free internet access, and a welcome touch of flowers. A cozy sitting room with a well-stocked library, as well as a charming outdoor patio are also on-hand. The complimentary three-course breakfasts are superb and include a wide range of hot specialties, such as traditional Scottish “rumbledethumps” (cabbage, potatoes, and onions) and huevos rancheros.

Address: 15 Glengyle Terrace
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH3 9LN
Phone: 0131 228-1973
Website: www.elmview.co.uk; nici@elmview.co.uk

The Scotsman
The former home of the Scotsman Newspaper, this five-star boutique hotel just steps from the Royal Mile and Princes Street is the answer to those seeking Scottish elegance and tradition. Great care has been taken to preserve many of the building’s original architectural details, such as elaborate woodwork and an impressive marble staircase that was originally reserved for the newspaper’s highest echelon. Ten floors accommodate 69 rooms (including 25 suites, 1 baron suite, and 1 penthouse), all of which feature an endless list of amenities, including Egyptian cotton bedding, a bathroom with marble vanity and heated towel rail, broadband internet access, complimentary shoeshine and newspaper, private bar, satellite TV, and an Edinburgh Monopoly board—but no air conditioning. Rooms also include an extremely handy “service hatch,” which allows guests to receive room service or items from housekeeping without ever having to open the door. A huge 20,000 square-foot gym and spa are available at no charge and feature the only stainless-steel pool in Scotland, a steam room, and dry sauna. After partaking in a meal at North Brasserie, the hotel’s excellent restaurant, guests can venture into the hotel’s petite Screening Room, which offers movies to both guests and the public.

Address: 20 North Bridge
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH1 1YT
Phone: 0131 556-5565
Website: www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk; reservations@thescotsmanhotel.co.uk

The Howard
Personalized service is the priority at The Howard in Edinburgh’s New Town, where a coat-tailed butler will fulfill your every whim—or at least give you an alternative option. The atmosphere is warm and elegant here, without an ounce of stuffiness, resulting in a boutique hotel that feels nearly like a private townhouse. The 200-year old Georgian-style complex features 18 guest rooms, which boast antique furnishings along with a host of modern amenities, including an LCD flat screen TV with movies on demand, same day laundry and dry cleaning, internet access, 24-hour room service, and in-room massage treatments. Those seeking extra creature comforts should seek out a Junior or Terrace Suite, which may offer a marble bathroom with Jacuzzi, oversized clawfoot tub, rain-head shower, fireplace, kitchenette, and/or private patio. Superior, modern Scottish fare can be found at The Atholl restaurant, where an award-winning Afternoon Tea treats guests to finger sandwiches, traditional pastries, and a selection of artisan teas and coffee.

Address: 34 Great King Street
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH3 6QH
Phone: Tel: 0131 557-3500
Website: www.townhousecompany.com/the_howard

The Glasshouse
Parading behind the façade of a 150-year old church, The Glasshouse hotel is the master of disguise, rendering it a wee bit difficult to find for the uninitiated. Once inside, however, visitors find it extremely evident that they are in one of Edinburgh’s most unique, contemporary hotels. As the name suggests, towering floor-to-ceiling windows are a standout feature at this stylish, 65-room hotel at the base of Calton Hill, lending an atmosphere that is bright and modern. Guest rooms offer a wide array of amenities, such as Egyptian cotton bedding, complimentary shoeshine and newspaper, CD players with music library (on request), internet access, private bar, flat-screen satellite TV, hairdryer, 24-hour room service, and bathrobe and slippers. (Note: request a garden view room and you won’t be sorry.) There are also six suites to choose from, which are not only named after single malt Scotches, but include a gratis bottle of the room’s namesake, (not to mention roomy terraces with superb skyline views). A large, modern-style garden is also a bonus at The Glasshouse, which is perfect for cocktails or a lazy, afternoon lounge.

Address: 2 Greenside Place
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH1 3AA
Phone: 0131 525 8200
Website: www.theetoncollection.com/glasshouse; resglasshouse@theetoncollection.com

Le Monde
Scottish tradition is pushed to the wayside at this fun, cutting-edge hotel in Edinburgh’s New Town, where some of the world’s greatest cities are tastefully represented in18 individually-decorated guest rooms. While all rooms offer similar amenities—Egyptian cotton sheets, wireless internet, rainfall shower, bathrobe and slippers, L’Occitane toiletries, under-floor heating, and a Champagne and chocolate-filled mini bar—the décor varies greatly. “Tokyo,” for example, features a cherry blossom mural, red lanterns, framed silk kimonos, and dark wood furnishings, while “St. Petersburg” is bedecked in a palate of silver and ice blue, with décor modeled after Catherine the Great’s palace. Atlantis is one of the most popular suites, with its wall-size blue lightbox; cool, teal walls; and bubbling aquarium. Three restaurants and bars (Paris, Milan, and Vienna) are definitely not for the quiet set, but they do offer a wide variety of reasonably-priced fare. Those seeking a little late-night partying needn’t look further than the Shanghai Club, Le Monde’s hip, pulsating nightclub, located right on the ground floor.

Address: 16 George St.
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH2 2PF
Phone: 0131 270 3900
Website: www.lemondehotel.co.uk; reservations@lemondehotel.co.uk

The Rutland Hotel
Baroque meets modern at this fabulous boutique hotel in Edinburgh’s New Town, where exceptional attention to detail has been paid to every nook and cranny. The designers searched all over the world for the unique furnishings found throughout the hotel, including the individually-decorated guest rooms. Ornamental wallpapers, intricately-carved furnishings, ornate mirrors, and textured drapery are complemented with simple, modern accents, resulting in a look that is never busy. Twelve guest rooms feature Egyptian cotton sheets with goose down duvets, wireless internet access, a wall-mounted flat-screen TV, rain showers, complimentary newspaper and muffins, and an iPod docking station, with two “Castle Suites” offering exceptional views of Edinburgh Castle. Exceptional food can be found at The Rutland’s award-winning restaurant, which focuses on modern brasserie-style fare. Nightlife aficionados will swoon over The One Below, the hotel’s ultra-sophisticated nightclub and bar. Popular with the locals, the dark, jewel-toned space features an iBar (an interactive bar top that changes color and pattern), private iPod booths, one of the best sake collections in Britain, and an elaborate cocktail list.

Address: 1-3 Rutland Street
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH1 2AE
Phone: 0131 229-3402
Website: www.therutlandhotel.com; info@the rutlandhotel.com

The Balmoral
Originally known as the North British hotel (or “N.B.”), this luxury, Edwardian-style landmark has been an Edinburgh institution since 1902. During a major refurbishment in 2003, great care was taken to preserve the hotel’s historic features while adding a touch of modern finesse. Contemporary elegance can be found in all 168 rooms and 20 suites, which offer a wealth of amenities, including marble bathrooms, fluffy bathrobes, same-day laundry service, internet access, satellite TV, a snack basket, and a walk-in dressing room. In addition to exceptional views of Edinburgh Castle, Balmoral suites include complimentary buffet breakfast, garment pressing, unpacking and packing of luggage, a mobile phone for local calls, free in-house movies, and in-room check-in. Spa aficionados won’t be disappointed with the Balmoral’s version, which treats guests to a 15-meter swimming pool, fully-equipped gym, a dry sauna and steam room, and a candlelit relaxation room to be used post-treatment. Those in search of a good meal will be thrilled with The Balmoral’s Michelin-starred “number one” restaurant, where local ingredients are used to create modern Scottish and French-influenced cuisine. A stay at The Balmoral will not be forgotten.

Address: 1 Princes Street
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH2 2EQ
Phone: 0131 556-2414; toll free 1 888 667 9477
Website: www.thebalmoralhotel.com; reservations.balmoral@roccofortecollection.com

For more information, go to www.VisitScotland.com

Back to the Future: Barrel-aged Beer

2010-03-15T13:02:00.000-07:00

With the advancement of stainless steel brewing in the 20th century, the tradition of barrel-aged beer went by the wayside. Recently, however, barrel-aging has begun to rear its heady goodness, as brewers rediscover the plush, aromatic, complex tones that wood can impart to beer. Here are three of my favorite brews.

Woodcut No. 3, Odell Brewing Co.
Woodcut No. 3 from Odell Brewing Co. in Fort Collins, Colo., is a crimson ale aged in virgin American oak barrels and conditioned in 750ml Champagne-style bottles. The third release in the brewery’s barrel-aged series, this ethereal, rust-colored brew is a marriage of Crystal, Cara, and Munich malts, which produce hints of raisins, sour plum, and oak on the nose. A palate of toffee, almonds and molasses round out a long, complex finish. Savor Woodcut No. 3 in the bottle or in the tap room, where the “Pilot System” enables guests to sample Odell’s line of experimental beers—available exclusively to visitors.
800 E. Lincoln Ave
Fort Collins, CO 80524
(970) 498-9070
www.odellbrewing.com

Old Growth Wild Ale, Trinity Brewing Company
Inspired by Flemish brown ale, Old Growth Wild Ale is an extraordinarily sour beer from the year-old Trinity Brewing Company in Colorado Springs, Colo. Aged in French oak barrels for 12-18 months and bottle-conditioned with Champagne yeast, Old Growth offers a pucker-inducing palate of tart citrus and balsamic vinegar, with a gamey nose and lengthy finish. Sample this sour concoction (and nearly 30 guest beers) at Trinity’s brewpub, which features a Slow Food-inspired menu that includes bison sliders with melted bleu cheese and vegan buffalo wings.
1466 Garden of the Gods Road
Colorado Springs, CO 80907
(719) 634-0029
www.trinitybrewing.com

Black Tot/Cerasus, Avery Brewing Company
At Avery Brewing Company in Boulder, Colo., the barrel-aged beer menu continually changing, making it highly beguiling to oak aficionados. Released in January 2010, Black Tot is a dark, chewy, imperial oatmeal stout aged in Gosling’s rum barrels. In late spring 2010, look for Cerasus, a sour cherry brew aged in Zinfandel barrels from Norman Vineyards in Paso Robles, Calif. Both of these limited releases can be enjoyed at Avery’s taproom, where exclusive tastings, live music, and special events are a regular occurrence.
5763 Arapahoe Ave.
Boulder, CO 80303
(303) 440-4324
www.averybrewing.com

Kilchoman Distillery: Islay's New Kid on the Block

2010-02-18T11:04:00.000-08:00

As the first new whisky producer on Scotland’s Isle of Islay in 124 years, Kilchoman (pronounced Kil-Ho-man) Distillery has a lot to prove. Joining an esteemed brotherhood that includes Laphroaig, Ardbeg, and Bowmore, Kilchoman strives to set itself apart by growing and malting its own barley (100 tons) and eventually performing every phase of the whisky-producing process on-site.

Currently, Kilchoman (one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries) produces a modest 90,000 liters annually, with 80% aged in bourbon barrels from Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace distillery, and the remaining 20% in fresh Oloroso sherry butts. Limited production ensured that Kilchoman’s “Inaugural Release” in September 2009 was snatched up in an angel’s heartbeat. Aged for 2.5-3 years in bourbon barrels, with an additional 6 month stint in sherry casks, Kilchoman’s first expression is laced with peat smoke in true Islay tradition and tastes far beyond its years.

Inaugural Release:
46% ABV; £37.00

Kilchoman Distillery
Rockside Farm, Bruichladdich
Isle of Islay
Scotland
PA49 7UT
T. +44 (0)1496 850 011
F. +44 (0)1496 850 156
www.kilchomandistillery.com

High Spirits: The Newest Distilleries in the West

2009-11-24T18:14:00.000-08:00

Boutique distilleries are blooming across the West like wildflowers as distillers begin to discover the region’s exceptional natural resources. Varying in shades of flavor and character, these handcrafted spirits are destined to satisfy nearly every palate or mood.

Dry Fly Distillery, Spokane, WA
A passion for fly fishing and the beauty of the Pacific Northwest inspired Don Poffenroth and Kent Fleischmann to create Dry Fly Distillery, a venture that would embrace sustainable resources and local ingredients. The first grain distillery in Washington State since before Prohibition, Dry Fly produces gin, vodka, and a newly-released Wheat Whiskey that’s nearly impossible to keep on the shelves.
www.dryflydistilling.com

12 Bridges Gin, Portland, OR
Twelve botanicals stretch across the palate in every sip of this Portland, Oregon-produced gin, aptly named for 12 bridges that expand across the Williamette and Columbia rivers. A marriage of London dry gin and Dutch genever, 12 Bridges exudes flavors of spicy ginger, sweet Norwegian blue juniper, citrus, and cucumber—the latter of which is infused into the gin during the distillation process.
www.integrityspirits.com

High West Distillery, Park City, UT
Snow skiis are the dress code at this “gastro distillery” residing in the Rocky Mountains, where visitors come to partake in snacks and liquid sustenance after a day on the slopes. The first legal distillery in Utah since the 1870s, High West produces Rendezvous Rye Whiskey (a non chill-filtered blend), as well as Vodka 7000, which is made from locally-grown oats and snowmelt water.
www.highwestdistillery.com

Koloa Rum Company, Kauai, HI
Kauai’s first permitted distilled-spirits producer has finally opened its doors. Located on the historic Kilohana Plantation, the Koloa Rum Company recently began producing small batches of micro-distilled rum with sugar sourced from the Gay & Robinson Plantation (the oldest operating sugar mill in Hawaii). Koloa’s onsite tasting room will offer samples and educate visitors about the history of rum and sugarcane in Hawaii.
www.koloarum.com

RND Vodka, Colorado/Santa Barbara, CA
Nano-scientist Michael Wrysta is the main brain behind RND vodka, a spirit obsessed with purity. Recently introduced to the Santa Barbara, Calif. market, RND is custom-made at a craft distillery in Colorado, a region known for its exceptionally pure Rocky Mountain water. Distillation of the corn-based spirit occurs 10 times through a continuous glass column still, resulting in a product that is simply ethereal in flavor.
www.rndvodka.com

Move Over Turkey. Bring on the Pumpkin!

2009-11-16T16:26:00.000-08:00

The pumpkin is a master of disguise. Cloaked in cream, eggs, or cheese, it can cleverly conceal its nutritious bounty. Dressed judiciously, however, its role as a wholesome food becomes easily recognizable.

Rich in fiber, potassium, and beta-carotene (an antioxidant that may help prevent heart disease and certain types of cancer), it can be a welcome guest at any health-conscious diner’s table. At only 80 calories per cup, it’s no wonder most jack-o’-lanterns smile.

This plump, wholesome fruit has been featured on Thanksgiving menus for almost 400 years, yet our modern recipe bears little resemblance to the pilgrim’s svelte original. Capitalizing on its naturally delicious flavor, the colonists simply stewed the squash with vinegar, brown sugar, and cinnamon, or filled it with milk and baked it whole. Many of us, however, like to laden our pumpkin with extra fat and calories—a difference that costs us an average of 14 grams of fat and 300 hundred calories per serving. With its buttery texture and subtle, earthy sweetness, pumpkin doesn’t require an army of rich ingredients to make it taste delicious. Often, one small pat of butter and sprinkling of fresh herbs or brown sugar will do.

While fresh pumpkin is available only a few months per year, the canned variety is a year-round resident at your local supermarket—giving you great reason to incorporate it into your daily diet. Not only is canned pumpkin undoubtedly easy to prepare—a couple twists of the can opener and you’re done—it’s just as nutritious as its fresh counterpart. It also tends to be more consistent in texture and flavor, making it the preferred choice for baking. But don’t think you need to reserve pumpkin solely for baking sweets; its versatile flavor complements savory dishes, too.

Once a can of pumpkin has been opened, place the unused portion in an airtight container, and store it either in the refrigerator for up to one week, or in the freezer for up to three months. But with its ample health benefits and appeasing flavor, it’s unlikely you’ll have leftovers.

Singita's Boulder Lodge, South Africa

2009-10-08T17:00:00.000-07:00

Leopard sightings are common at the superlative Singita Boulders Lodge on the banks of the Sabi Sand River on the western border of Kruger National Park, where a perennial flow of water and groves of acacia and marula trees attracts a wealth of wildlife.

Luxury is the word of choice here, where 12 spacious suites (including two double family suites) feature their own private game-viewing deck with heated plunge pool, spacious bathroom, double-sided fireplace, indoor/outdoor showers, and vast, floor-to-ceiling savannah views. The dramatic African terrain has been infused into the interior design, in a palette of stonework; rich, chocolate brown leather; textured fabrics; and hand-felled wood furnishings. After a awe-inspiring day of safari in the African bush, birdwatching (over 400 species can be found here), or a rejuvenating sea mud wrap at the spa, guests can enjoy a superb fusion of Asian, pan-African, and modern European cuisine beneath the lantern-lit trees at twilight or in the stonewalled, candlelit dining room. Three meals a day are included in the room rate, as are all wine and spirits, and guided safaris.

Sabi Sand Game Reserve
Kruger National Park
Mpumalanga province, South Africa
Lodge contact number: +27 (0)13 735 5456; US reservations: (212) 967 5895
Website: www.singita.com; reservations@singita.com

Photo Credit: Singita Boulders Lodge

A Haven for South African Wines

2009-10-08T16:28:00.001-07:00

Residing in Cape Town’s stylish Victoria & Alfred Waterfront district, the Wine Loft is a stellar feature at the new One&Only resort, where guests come to enjoy not only the most luxurious accommodations in the city, but also one of the largest collections of South African wines in the world.

Adjacent to Gordon Ramsay’s maze restaurant, the Wine Loft houses over 5,000 bottles of wine, including 450 labels and nearly 100 wines by the glass. Wines are organized by terroir and regional style—rather than labels and brand names—and include both rare, older vintages (Meerlust Rubicon 1993) and new, boutique-style offerings (Eben Sadie’s Palladius). At the Chef’s Table, guests can partake in a sumptuous,10-course, wine-paired meal or participate in special tasting sessions hosted by local wineries. For those wishing to expand their South African wine erudition, the One&Only's introductory Wines of the Cape course is an excellent option.

The Wine Loft
One&Only Cape Town
Dock Road
Victoria & Alfred Waterfront
Cape Town 8001, South Africa
Resort number: +27 21 431 5230; Reservations: (888) 877-7528
www.oneandonlyresorts.com

Bruichladdich 21 Defines the End of an Era

2009-05-20T16:37:00.000-07:00

With the prowess to impart rich, creamy, fruity nuances to Scotch whisky during the aging process, Spanish sherry casks have been utilized by whisky producers since the 19th century. But as the sale and production of sherry continues to decline, many whisky producers are preparing for the extinction of the sherry cask.

“It’s really the end of an era,” says Mark Reynier, managing director of Bruichladdich Distillery on Scotland’s Isle of Islay. In a commemorative wave farewell, Bruichladdich has released a limited-edition 21-year-old whisky, $240 for 700 ml, which has been aged in the distillery’s rare collection of oloroso sherry butts for more than two decades. The rich nose radiates candied orange peel, burnt caramel, and cinnamon bark. Non-chill filtering provides an exceptionally honest flavor profile of dried apricots, toasted walnuts, raisins, and dark chocolate. It is Bruichladdich’s richest, full-bodied Scotch whisky to date and will likely be one of the last sherry expressions it releases. (www.bruichladdich.com)

Spreading Like Wildfire: Smoky Cocktails

2009-05-12T15:11:00.000-07:00

At DOSA on Fillmore, San Francisco’s newest South Indian eatery, mixologist/consultant Jonny Raglin strives to create cocktails that can stand up to the restaurant’s rich, pungently-spiced cuisine. For this, he turns smoke, one of the freshest and most innovative cocktail flavors to recently waft across the country.

The Smoked Cup—a fragrant blend of mezcal, Pimm’s black cardamom tincture, ginger beer, and cucumber dusted with smoked salt—is heady and refreshing, with a delicate smoky finish that lingers on the palate. “Smoke is an amazing flavor because it transcends the normal concept of taste,” says Josh Durr of Molecular Bartending in Louisville, Ky. “It’s not sour, bitter, sweet, or salty, but it could be considered umami.”

To permeate a cocktail with a smoky flavor, some bartenders place ingredients such as spirits, liquids, or garnishes directly into a smoker. At New York’s Tailor, for example, bartender Eben Freeman embellishes The Waylon, a Bourbon-based cocktail, with cola syrup that has been smoked over cherry and alder wood. Durr prefers to smoke only the cocktail’s ancillary ingredients, which he finds gives the drink an intricate finish.

With bacon’s recent rise to cult-like status, it was only a matter of time before it’s smoky appeal found its way into the cocktail. Peter Vestinos, beverage director at Wirtz Beverage Group, and others like Don Lee from New York’s PDT, infuse bacon into spirits by a technique called “fat washing,” which involves steeping hot bacon in a spirit for 4 to 6 hours, and then freezes it until the fat solidifies and can be skimmed off. Vestinos, former bartender at Sepia in New York, utilized bacon-infused vodka in his Bacon Bloody Mary, which is combined with maple syrup, tomato juice, and liquid smoke, and served in maple-sugar-rimmed glass. “It is possible for smoke to overpower a cocktail, however,” Vestinos warns. “Smoky cocktails should be like smoked meat. The meat should be the focus, while the smoke adds a complementary layer of flavor.”

Kim Haasarud of Liquid Architecture prefers to use naturally smoky spirits in her cocktails, such as mezcal, which she blends with blood orange juice in her Sunburned Margarita. Others, like Peter Vestino, give their cocktails a subtle smoky flavor by using a smoky Islay Scotch as an ingredient or glass rinse.

“The most important thing to remember is that flavor balance is key,” says Josh Durr. “Too much smoke can leave you not wanting to relive the experience.”

Instructions for smoking spirits at home:
Place your chosen spirit (or liqueur, syrup, garnish, etc.) into a shallow pan and place, uncovered, over aromatic wood in a conventional grill. Tightly seal the grill with a lid and allow the mixture to smoke. Sample every 30 minutes until the desired flavor is achieved.

Orchard Smoked Toddy
By Josh Durr, Molecular Bartending

1 1/4 oz apple wood smoked rye whiskey
1/4 oz freshly-squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon of clover honey
1/4 cup of hot water

Directions: Build in an Irish coffee cup. Stir well until honey is dissolved. Garnish with a sliver of ginger.

The Spirit of Scotland: Whisky With a Smile

2009-04-22T16:07:00.000-07:00

If the Scotch whisky industry was a man, I would be in love. Surely he would be the “sensitive-type”—unashamed to show his emotions, honest, loyal, respectful, and kind. Public Displays of Affection would be perfectly acceptable; and I would always feel protected.

My first rendezvous with SWI (as I like to call him) occurred during a recent trip to Scotland, during which I had planned to pilfer a taste not only of the Scottish countryside, but also the native drink: Scotch whisky. The date took place at historic Dalmore, a distillery snuggled amongst the grey-flannelled Scottish Highlands. And when we were introduced, via Mr. Richard Paterson, award-winning Master Scotch Blender for Whyte and Mackay Distillers, I was instantly smitten—and not just for Paterson’s matching pink tie and kerchief. Paterson was giving a master class on “the proper way to drink Scotch,”—a process, I soon learned, that begins with a gracious salutation to the Scotch itself.

“Helloooo. How aaarrre yoooou?” Paterson had called out to his dram. The hope was that the Scotch would respond with the lilting aroma of Scotland itself: Warmth, passion, sweetness, and spice—scents that not only describe the nuances of Scotch whisky, but also the people who make the whisky industry function like a well-oiled Pot Still.

Paterson had spent the first half hour of class expertly getting our attention. This included slinging drams of Scotch over his shoulder, detonating confetti poppers, and relaying the precise details of Abraham Lincoln’s assassination…and Scotland’s square mileage…and its annual rainfall…and the nautical length of each coast—“Did you get all that?” he had quipped.
When we arrived at the tasting portion of the class, Paterson poured himself a dram of “new-make spirit” (un-aged whisky), then grandly swirled the Scotch around his glass to “arouse its scent.”

“The only way to make sure your Scotch is up to standard, is to smell it,” Paterson announced, dipping his nose into the dram’s pear-shaped body. “When I say ‘Hello’ to this whisky, it replies, ‘Hello, I’m 68% alcohol.’ So I disregard that.” Paterson double-dipped for another whiff. “Then I ask, ‘How are you?’ The whisky replies, ‘Well, I’m in a bad mood. I’m hot. I’m grumpy. I’m really rather angry.’” I began to speculate how much whisky a Master Blender must sample each day.

“What the whisky is telling you,” Paterson revealed, “is that it needs to go…To Sleep. It needs to sleep for 10, 15, 20 years—we’re looking for perfection.” He exchanged the Scotch for a sample of The Dalmore’s 12-year-old single Highland malt, took a swig, then invited the whisky to “simply relax” in his mouth, “allowing the warmth of [his] tongue release the Scotch’s flavor.”

“Mmm. Mm Hmm. Mm Hmm. Mmm. Mmmm…” he contemplated, one finger twirling in front of his closed mouth like a plane’s propeller. Nearly a minute passed as we waited for the diagnosis. “Ahhh! Beautiful citrus. A lot of orange peel, spice, and a bit of marzipan lingering at the back. This is what you’re looking for—for the true passion of the Scotch to come through.”

If Paterson’s exuberance for Scotch whisky leaves your palate skeptical, it’s probably because Scotch either:

A.) Reminds you how much you drank in college
B.) Is “a manly man’s drink” (to quote my mother)
C.) Tastes bad

For those who chose C., perhaps it’s time to contemplate changing your answer to D.) None of the above. Before setting out on my Scotch whisky crusade, I wasn’t convinced I liked Scotch, either. Frankly, the thought of spending 10 days dousing my uninitiated liver with “a manly man’s drink” was a bit unnerving. (‘Would a pink dress be considered too girly for Scotch drinking?’ for example.) But once I discovered that thousands of Scots had fought to their death for the stuff, I decided to give it a shot—er, uh—a dram.

“One of the biggest mistakes that people make when trying Scotch for the first time, is to drink it neat,” laments Jonathan Driver, Malt Whisky Director for Diageo Distillers. “They try it neat and think ‘Oh, it’s not me.’ But if you want to gain complete control over Scotch’s flavor, dilute it with a bit of ice cold water. Not only does it make it easier to drink, but it new awakens flavor—it’s amazing.”

“It’s important to remember that what we provide in the bottle is a concentrate,” says Bill Bergius, Brand Heritage Director for Allied Domecq's Scotch Malts Portfolio. An avid whisky drinker for 30 years, Bergius still adds up to 80% water when he feels its necessary.
For those who loathe Scotch’s nose, Driver suggests serving it either on the rocks or ice-cold to muffle its scent. One of his favorite vices: A dram of frozen Dalwhinnie with a slice of deeply chocolate cake. I’ll attest: It’s delicious.

“Scotch is a flavor that you really need to spend time getting used to—like anchovies or caviar,” he explains. “If you don’t like it straight away, it doesn’t mean it’s not right for you. Try it again in a month—you may surprise yourself.”

Bergius was right. And I was secretly relieved. I certainly didn’t want to be known ‘round the glen as the American Whisky Wimp. And while Day One may have seen me with a Scotch/water ratio of 20/80, by Day Ten I was swigging back 80/20 with the rest of the MacLeods.

The roots of Scotch whisky have run firm and deep throughout Scotland for more than a millennia. Likely making its debut around 500 A.D. (by “a group of alcoholics known as Irish monks,” according to Paterson,) whisky was an instant hit. The Scots dubbed it uisge beathe in Gaelic, meaning water of life, and the moniker couldn’t have been more accurate.

To the Scots, the spirit’s power seemed almost supernatural. Thought to possess medicinal qualities, it was used to treat everything from smallpox to sword wounds. It also had the uncanny ability to appease a colicky baby, who learned early on that it was the ultimate soothe-all. Scotch pacified kings. Scotch solidified business deals. Scotch strengthened friendships and banished the notorious Scottish chill. Elizabeth Grant may have said it best in her 1898 Memoirs of a Highland Lady, which documented her time spent at Glenlivet Distillery: “That dram was the Highland prayer, it began, accompanied, and ended all things.”

Buried like a precious truffle within the Scottish Highlands, the secluded town of Glenlivet was considered Ground Zero for the whisky smuggling trade during the 18th century. The newly-united parliament had just imposed its first tax on Scotch, and the whisky distillers saw no reason to pay the government for their native drink. Of the 14,000 illicit distilleries that cropped up across Scotland, more than 200 settled within the small glen alone. Ironically, the very man who had imposed the Scotch tax, King George IV (of “Georgie Porgie” nursery rhyme fame), chose Glenlivet’s illicit whisky as his favorite. According to Grant, “The King drank nothing else.”

Unfortunately, many Glenlivet distillers fought to their death before new legislation in 1823 made Scotch whisky a viable source of revenue for both the government and the distillers. The Glenlivet Distillery was the first to “go legal” and is currently the best-selling single malt whisky in the United States.

“Scotch whisky has always been the blood of Scotland,” says Jim McEwan, a 40-year veteran of the industry. On the petite Isle of Islay, where McEwan acts as Bruichladdich Distillery’s Production Director, Scotch production is an integral part of the economy. “If a distillery closes, the heart of the community stops beating,” he says. “We rely on the industry for our livelihood.”
“For many, Scotch whisky is Scotland,” agrees David Williamson, Public Affairs Manager at the Scotch Whisky Association.

“It’s inextricably linked to our environment, culture, and people. It’s a great source of pride that a spirit made from simple raw materials—in a country of less than five million people—has become such a global icon.”

But Scotch whisky’s staying power would not be possible if it weren’t for SWI’s ceaseless devotion to its native spirit. At age 27, Ewan Gunn, Brand Ambassador for Dewar’s Scotch Whisky, has already spent six years in the industry and doesn’t plan on abandoning it anytime soon.

“Once a person starts working in the Scotch whisky industry, they rarely leave,” says Gunn. “It’s like a large family. Different distilleries trade whisky on an almost daily basis, they share bottling facilities, and even help each other out if there’s a crisis—in how many other industries would that take place?” McEwan agrees.

“We all have great respect for each other—no one is ever badmouthed,” he says. “I’m so grateful to be involved in this business.”

Fortunate for McEwan, Gunn, and the nearly 41,000 other Scots who depend on whisky production for employment, the industry won’t be inhaling its last breath anytime soon. According to Williamson, “Scotch whisky is one of the UK’s top five export earners, with annual profits well over $3 billion.”

But such success does not come without imitation, however, and the Scotch whisky industry is forever embroiled in a fight to preserve the quality and integrity of its product.

“Traders have been known to exploit Scotch's reputation,” says Williamson. “They might misuse the term Scotch whisky on a product that is neither Scotch nor whisky, or use an indirect indication on the label—perhaps a tartan design or a figure in a kilt—to misleadingly suggest Scottish origin. It’s our top priority to provide worldwide legal protection for Scotch.”

Regardless of how many people try to steal the identity of Scotch whisky, however, they will never rob the Scots of their pride, or the permanent warmth that 1500 years of Scotch drinking has instilled on their character.

“When you look into a glass of Scotch, look for the heart and soul of the people who made the whisky,” says McEwan. “You’ll see our integrity, honesty, and history. You’ll see our passion.”

Pasolivo Artisan Olive Oil

2009-04-19T15:22:00.000-07:00

Tucked beneath a canopy of knobby-kneed oaks, Pasolivo, in Paso Robles, Calif., creates what are perhaps some of the most vibrantly-flavored olive oils in the world. At least that’s the message from the year’s International Olive Oil Competition in Los Angeles, where the company won two best-in-show awards.

In an area known primarily as one of the country’s most prolific wine regions, Pasolivo’s tasting room and shop are a welcome sight to weary, numb-tongued wine tasters who are in need of a palate cleanser. There, visitors can sample the yield of over 9,000 estate-grown olive trees. Not only are the olives hand-harvested, they’re also crushed, bottled, and labeled on-site.
“It’s almost unheard of for an olive oil producer to do everything themselves,” says manager Joeli Yaguda, whose husband, Joshua, is the company’s olive miller. “It’s a massive commitment, but it really allows us to control every step of the production process.”

Glowing in various shades of citrine, Pasolivo’s extra-virgin oils are fervent in flavor. The Estate Tuscan blend exudes a grassy intensity and sharp, spicy finish; it’s particularly pungent within the first three months after bottling when it is known as olio nuovo, or “new oil.”

Customers seeking a companion for grilled fish—or virtually any vegetable on the planet—gravitate towards Pasolivo’s citrus olive oils. Radiating the summery perfume of freshly-squeezed tangerines, limes, and meyer lemons, these oils are made by adding pure citrus oil to the olives while they’re crushed.

After an informative guided tour, which shows off an impressive Italian Pieralisi olive mill, the tasting bar becomes fills customers who clamor for samples. Chunks of local artisanal bread are dipped in pools of olive oil then sprinkled with feathery flakes of Cyprus Black Lava Salt. Oohs and aahs ensue. Shopping baskets become heavy—not only with olive oil—but also with handmade chocolates infused with tangerine olive oil, olives stuffed with bleu cheese, and bread—an ultra-chewy, thick-crusted loaf by Ciro Pasciuto that is sold for $3 a pound on Fridays and Saturdays.

The olive oils range in price from $16 to $30 for 200-milliliter to 500-milliliter bottles. Act with haste, however: Pasolivo’s oils have sold out each year since the company began selling them to the public seven years ago.

Pasolivo Olive Oil
8530 Vineyard Drive, Paso Robles, CA 93446
Phone: (805) 227-0186
www.pasolivo.com
Hours: Friday through Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and by appointment.
Prices: Range between $16-$30 per bottle

Inkaterra's Urubamba Villas, Peru

2009-03-13T17:59:00.000-07:00

An exquisite sojourn exists deep in the heart of Urubamba, an ancient village in Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas. Surrounded by the sheer cliffs of the Andean mountains, fragrant lavender buds, and a patchwork quilt of agricultural countryside, Inkaterra's Urubamba Villas offer contemporary accommodations that seamlessly preserve the vibrant flavor of Peru’s culture.

Operated by eco-travel pioneer Inkaterra—best known for its multi award-winning boutique hotel at Machu Picchu—each of the four adobe-style villas is adorned with expansive, wood-beam ceilings; intricately-woven textiles; and local handicrafts; and comes equipped with a maid and personal chef who specializes in the local cuisine. For breakfast, golden quinoa pancakes with passion fruit syrup are often the meal of choice; in the evenings, savory alpaca, cuy (guinea pig), or a rich, quinoa risotto may be on the menu.

For those wishing to venture beyond the villa gates, a private bilingual guide can be arranged to lead you through the traditional, Quechua-speaking region, where an ancient marketplace, the archaeological ruins of Pisac, and Ollantaytambo—the gateway to Machu Picchu—are only minutes away.

www.Inkaterra.com
Toll free from USA and Canada (800) 442-5042
Rates begin at $150 USD per person, per night.

From Adrbeg Distillery: A Secret Ingredient

2009-02-27T21:53:00.000-08:00

Perched on the Isle of Islay, a raw, mist-driven island off the west coast of Scotland, Ardbeg Distillery has been renowned for its complex, smoky Scotch for nearly 200 years. After the Old Kiln Café was added to its visitor’s center in 1997, however, the Scotch was forced to share the spotlight—at least to those who appreciate a good meal.

“Our food is very unique to the area so everyone really embraces it,” explains Jackie Thomson, the café’s manager. “We found there to be a real demand for this sort of thing.”

Housed in Ardbeg’s original 1815 kiln room and malt barn, the café emerges like a warm, welcoming beacon on the often blustery landscape, its twin pagoda roofs rising ceremoniously into the air like points on a crown. Inside, the visitor’s shop bustles, while appreciative murmurs from the adjoining whisky tasting and nosing bar acts as soothing mood music. The furnishings are modest. The mood, relaxed. The smell, marvelous—a mixture of cinnamon and peat smoke, with a dash of salt delivered from the surrounding sea.

“Originally, we planned to serve only simple treats like scones and tea,” says Thomson, whose husband, Stuart, acts as Distillery Manager. But resident baker, Mary McKechnie, had a yen for culinary experimentation, especially when it came to Ardbeg’s arsenal of barley grist.

Consisting of barley that has been malted, dried, and crushed, grist is the primary ingredient in Scotch. And on Islay, the grist is often dried over peat, a practice that imparts a deeply smoky flavor to most of the whisky produced in the region.

“Islay distillers have traditionally used peat-heated kilns to dry the malted barley because there is no coal and very few trees on the island,” explains Adam Hannett, a mashman at neighboring Bruichladdich Distillery. “That’s why so many Islay malts have such a pronounced smoky taste.”

With a mildly sweet, chestnutty flavor, an aroma that declares “beach barbeque,” and a texture that looks suspiciously like wood chips, peated grist is an unusual fellow—definitely not the sort you’d invite to tea without getting to know him a bit better. So what gave McKechnie the guts to graciously wave him into her kitchen?

“We really like to utilize all of our resources,” explains Thomson. “We use locally-grown produce, Islay-raised meat, regional fish—why not the distillery’s grist?”

Well, for starters, Ardbeg produces the most heavily-peated Scotch in all of Scotland. Many would consider baking with its grist a shameful waste of some potentially great whisky. But in the battle between commonsense and a chef’s curiosity, McKechnie’s curiosity triumphed after she casually slipped some of Ardbeg’s grist into a batch of bread dough. The result was an epiphany: plump, chewy bread rolls enveloped in an earthy veil of peat smoke.

“People are really taken aback by the flavor because they don’t expect bread to taste smoky,” says Thomson. “But it’s incredibly delicious. The grist gives the bread just a wee bit of smokiness; the flavor really leaves an impression.” McKechnie likes to serve the rolls with Scottish gravlax and a dram of Ardbeg 75, or alongside a thick, brawny stew, like lentil with smoked ham.

After its debut appearance, Ardbeg’s grist quickly found its way itself into other menu items, like the Scottish cranachan (fresh whipped cream and local raspberries speckled with sweetened, toasted grist), baked chicken wrapped in a crunchy grist-Parmesan cheese crust, and that revenge-inspiring clootie dumpling. And while Thomson doesn’t see the café expanding to include dinner service anytime soon, it has begun to offer catering services for events like weddings, private parties, and music concerts.

Steeped in Scottish tradition, Islay isn’t your typical trend-setting territory. That alone may explain the Café’s success.

“We’re always looking for something different,” says Thomson. “That’s what keeps our customers coming back.”

A Day in the Life at Scotch School

2009-01-28T10:22:00.000-08:00

At Bruichladdich Distillery’s Malt Whisky Academy, students are urged to participate in every step of the whisky making process, such as filling casks, cutting peat from 1,000 year-old bogs, and sampling some of the sweetest drams on earth. Rest assured—there isn’t a blackboard or textbook in sight.

Thrice recognized as Distillery of the Year by Malt Advocate magazine, Bruichladdich Distillery resides on the Isle of Islay, a ferociously beautiful island in Scotland’s Western Hebrides. Eight distilleries occupy this tiny bump in the Atlantic, making it the most distillery-dense region in all of Britain.

Those looking to experience the true essence of the Scotch whisky industry—the passion, the art, the dedication of its people—often choose Islay as their dream destination. Those looking for an even more intimate experience choose Bruichladdich’s Malt Whisky Academy, where intensive, weeklong programs on the whisky-making process are offered to the public. And if Master Distiller Jim McEwan is on hand during their stay, students will meet a man whose zeal for whisky oozes from every pore. Warning: His condition is contagious.

The academy has graduated an eclectic cast of characters, including whisky aficionados, retirees, students, industry professionals, and a journalist named Sarah Lacamoire. Depending on the time of year, the size of the student body can range from one to six. During my own stay, I shared a desk with one accomplice only: Barry King, a retired Englishman who taught whisky master classes in his spare time. We had nearly nothing in common. But our shared passion for whisky ensured that we became great pals. It wasn’t long before we found ourselves gaily debating the benefits of psychotherapy versus the game of cricket with a dram in each hand.

Each morning, often before the sun had risen, Barry and I would brave gale force winds and a slew of mismatched rain drops during our three minute walk to “school.” Over the next seven days, Distillery Manager Duncan McGillirvray took us under his kind, patient wing and immersed us in a wave of whisky education.

The week looked something like this:

Day One: Toured distillery, reviewed health and safety, felt silly in my uniform, drank whisky, felt less silly, drank more whisky.

Day Two: Learned about malting, milling, mashing. Introduced to cute distillery shop boy, drank whisky.

Day Three: Observed fermentation, succeeded in not passing out from wafts of CO2, meditated in distillery house, drank whisky with cute distillery shop boy.

Day Four: Rolled barrels into warehouse, devised plan on how to move to Scotland, drank whisky.

Day Five: Discovered the meaning of the life: Islay, learned bottling specifics, decided the Scottish accent is the sexiest on earth, reveled in a master class by Jim McEwan, drank whisky.

Day Six: Exam! Attended graduation, drank lots and lots of whisky.

Bruichladdich’s crew was extraordinarily patient and helpful. No question was deemed too silly or absurd. The Scotch industry takes great pride in their spirit and is eager to share their knowledge with anyone who will listen.

On the final day, I was touched and amazed when the entire distillery crew arrived for the “graduation” ceremony. I giggled. Barry cried. Then Bruichladdich’s adorable shopkeeper supplied us with a dram of Flirtation, the distillery’s highly-toted, blush-colored whisky. Needless to say, I was already in love.

Bruichladdich Distillery
The Isle of Islay, Scotland
Phone: 011 (44) 1496 850 221.
Inquiries related to the Malt Whisky Academy can be sent to Ella Edgar at ella@bruichladdich.com.
The academy is open May through November. Bed and breakfast accommodations, including all meals, is included in the tuition of £850 (approx. $1,200 USD.)

Freshly Picked From the Tree of Life: Amarula Liqueur

2009-01-26T15:22:00.000-08:00

Mottled against the azure South African sky, the fruit of the marula tree hangs like perfect orbs of sunlight, its piquant, sweet flesh hidden beneath a thick layer of golden skin. To the people and wildlife of Africa, it is a true botanical treasure, with archaeological evidence revealing its consumption since 10,000 B.C. Every part of the tree—bark, pulp, leaf, seed, skin—has been assigned a nutritional, medicinal, or spiritual purpose, making it one of the most versatile flora on the entire continent.

The myths that envelope the marula tree are as plentiful as the elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, and kudu who feast on its succulent fruit. Highly prolific, (the tree has been known to produce up to two tons of fruit per year,) the dioecious marula tree has been seen as a sex symbol of sorts, believed by some to possess aphrodisiac-like qualities and bestow fertility upon all who eat its fruit. Known as “the marriage tree,” by numerous tribes, the marula’s fertile boughs have been a traditional wedding site for 1000s of years, a custom that is still practiced to this day.

The plum-sized marula fruit (Scelerocarya birrea) belongs to the mango family and possesses a flavor far from its tropical, blush-skinned cousin: mildly sweet, lip-puckeringly sour, and slightly vegetal; it’s not your average fruit salad compadre. Peel away its substantial skin and a glistening, translucent flesh is revealed, while a copious dose of juice forms a healthy puddle in your lap. Marula pulp contains four times more vitamin C than the average orange, while its obese edible kernel boasts 31 grams of protein (per 100g of fruit) and an antioxidant-rich oil that is frequently used in cooking and cosmetics.

Marula fruit is usually consumed either fresh or in the form of juice, jam, or beer, a highly potent brew made from overripe fruit. Locals swear by this heady concoction, which has been at the epicenter of numerous ceremonies, rituals, and festivals for centuries. Forming an ethanol level of nearly 3 percent after falling upon the ground, an overripe marula is virtually a beer starter-kit.

Indigenous to Africa, the marula fruit cannot be cultivated, therefore its consumption by U.S. consumers had been virtually impossible for years. Now, however, the taste of marula can be exxperienced in Amarula Cream, a luscious liqueur made from distilled, oak-aged marula spirit and fresh cream. Unlike many cream liqueurs, which can be as heavy as a wooly winter muffler on the palate, Amarula coats the tongue in a light sheath of flavors—caramel, buttered rum, milk chocolate, and butterscotch—which subtly reveal themselves like the intricate layers of a petit four. It’s a kind addition to ice cream, dessert sauces, milkshakes, and eggnog, and surprisingly light sipped neat, over ice.

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Amarula can be purchased from specialty beverage stores, such as BevMo.
Suggested retail price: $23.99
www.amarula.com

Scharffen Berger's Roasted Cocoa Nibs

2009-01-23T17:50:00.000-08:00

BEAN THERE—DONE THAT?

Without its cloak of cream and sugar, chocolate is nothing more than a bean. Husked, roasted, and gently crushed, however, these naked legumes, or cocoa nibs, are startlingly perfect all on their own.

Crunchier than a nut, intense, and devilishly bitter, nibs are surprisingly versatile. They’re kind to both sweet and savory flavors, complementing everything from blackberries to beef. Recently introduced to the mainstream by chocolate maker Scharffen Berger, cocoa nibs are quickly becoming the adventurous ingredient of choice among many top chefs.

At Atlanta’s Ritz Carlton Dining Room, Chef Bruno Ménard uses nibs and pistachios to encrust plump langoustines, giving them an exceptionally commanding crunch. WD-50’s chef, Wylie Dufresne, prefers to use nibs as garnish, sprinkling them atop a foie gras, anchovy terrine for a tiny, yet complex bite.

Perhaps the cocoa nib’s greatest talent, however, is its ability to transform a once-familiar food into a wild, new adventure. For Alice Medrich, author of the definitive chocolate cookbook, Bittersweet (Artisan, 2003), ordinary whipped cream became an epiphany once she infused it with the flavor of cocoa nibs.

“Cocoa nib [whipped] cream is positively exquisite,” she sighs, “It’s like whipped albino chocolate. If you’ve ever dreamed about white chocolate that was not sweet, had a true chocolate flavor, and a fresh creamy taste, your dreams have come true.”

Get Your Bed & Butter at Duvet Restaurant

2009-01-23T16:06:00.000-08:00

Dining at New York City's Duvet Restaurant is like looking through the world's largest peephole.

Until recently, my last memory of eating in bed entailed my mother unearthing the gummy worms I had slipped in my mouth at bedtime—“A big no-no!” I was promptly warned. So when I heard about Duvet, New York City’s new bed-ridden restaurant, I was immediately intrigued.

“Space-age boudoir” could best describe Duvet’s otherworldly atmosphere, where the glowing glass cocktail bar unfolds like a lunar landscape and lights blaze above like multicolored stars. Even the jellyfish look extraterrestrial as they eerily stew about their aquarium. But perhaps the restaurant’s most alien feature is its collection of 30 king-size beds, all outfitted in champagne-colored sheets and butter-soft satin pillows.

Upon my arrival at Duvet, I was ordered to ditch my heels for a pair of complimentary, white terry slippers. I’ll admit that my feet aren’t petite, but I was troubled when my toes dangled off the end of each slipper like hotdogs on an ill-fitting bun. Next, I was whisked to my bed and told to make myself “comfortable”—something I avoided by tying my long legs into a pretzel. I nervously glanced at other beds nearby, feeling as though I looking into the world’s largest peephole. There was only one problem: I was being watched, too.

But by my third white satin mojito, I began to loosen up. Duvet’s menu is both original and accessible, and I had no trouble calming my nerves with bites of charred mackerel garnished with pineapple and peppercorns, and silky bluefin tuna sashimi surrounded by luminous tangerines, pickled peppers, and crisp radish—that is, until the bed-sheet popped off the mattress.

“That never happens!” assured my shamefaced waiter, who unfortunately had to repeat himself 10 minutes later.

After extinguishing my candle by knocking over my water glass, I escaped to the unisex loo to regroup. My plan was foiled, however, when I discovered that the bathroom stall doors were one-way-glass mirrors. So while I did my “business,” I was entertained by others applying their lipstick and picking their teeth in my direction.

Back in bed, between tangy bites of tangerine crème brûlée and black pepper churro, I began to wonder whether my mother had been onto something. Was eating in bed “A big no-no?” Perhaps only if you’re being watched.

Idol of Islay: Laphroaig Distillery

2009-01-22T15:15:00.000-08:00

With its virulent peat-smoke scent, sea salt tang, and a flavor reminiscent of “cough syrup,” Laphroaig (pronounced la-Froyg) may seem like a dubious choice for the “Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky in the World.” But in 2005, Laphroaig’s Original Cask Strength malt was awarded that very title by Whisky Magazine, as well as three gold medals at the 2007 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

“Laphroaig is definitely an acquired taste for some people—like caviar or oysters,” says Ken Lindsay, Laphroaig’s Brand Ambassador. “For others, their first dram is like a rite of passage. They say, ‘Oh my God, this is what I’ve been looking for all these years!’ It’s as though they’ve found their soul mate.”

Located on the Isle of Islay in Scotland’s Western Hebrides, Laphroaig resides amongst eight whisky distilleries, including Bowmore, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg. Yet it is Laphroaig that sells the most whisky by volume, a distillery that’s been producing some of the world’s most distinctive, single malt Scotch for nearly 200 years.

Stephen Naguschewski, a whisky enthusiast from Goettingen, Germany, was “flabbergasted—in the most positive sense” the first time he tried Laphroaig. “I never realized a whisky could be so expressive,” he says.

“It’s so full of character,” agrees P.A. Ohlsson, a fellow fan from Nassjo, Sweden. “I actually don’t remember if I liked it the first time I tasted it, but I do know I wanted to introduce it to all my friends and colleagues.”

In fact, both Naguschewski and Ohlsson, and more than 200,000 whisky fans were so impressed by the malt, that they joined Friends of Laphroaig, the distillery’s own “fan club.” Since its inception in 1994, the organization has gained an international following, with its membership representing over 150 countries worldwide. Friends are eligible for exclusive bottlings, restricted auctions, and shop discounts, as well as access to the private, online forum, where many find a comforting sense of solidarity amongst other Laphroaig followers, like Peter Hughes in Saskatchewan, Gary Finnigan stationed in Iraq, and Jan Coconis in Southern California.

Perhaps the club’s most unusual perk, is the gift of one-square-foot of Laphroaig’s land from a field reserved exclusively for members. Each registered plot comes with the promise that rent will be paid annually by the distillery in the form of one dram, (which can only be collected if they make a pilgrimage to Islay).

Although he has been a fan of Laphroaig Scotch whisky for more than 10 years, Harry Williams of Wolverhampton, England, had not journeyed to the distillery until this past summer. When he finally made the pilgrimage, he was sure to bring his collection of 40 small metal disks, each one collected from the top of a Laphroaig bottle and neatly stacked in a black plastic, film canister. He had high hopes of trading them in for a coveted bottle of the fruity, 30 year old malt.
Before his scheduled tour, Williams was forced to drive past the distillery three times.

“It was like driving past the gates of heaven and not being allowed to enter,” he says, showing off the grains of Laphroaig’s smoked barley hidden in his film canister. “They gave me these,” he says proudly, with a level of adoration that clearly only a devout fan would understand.