High Spirits: The Newest Distilleries in the West

Boutique distilleries are blooming across the West like wildflowers as distillers begin to discover the region’s exceptional natural resources. Varying in shades of flavor and character, these handcrafted spirits are destined to satisfy nearly every palate or mood.

Dry Fly Distillery, Spokane, WA
A passion for fly fishing and the beauty of the Pacific Northwest inspired Don Poffenroth and Kent Fleischmann to create Dry Fly Distillery, a venture that would embrace sustainable resources and local ingredients. The first grain distillery in Washington State since before Prohibition, Dry Fly produces gin, vodka, and a newly-released Wheat Whiskey that’s nearly impossible to keep on the shelves.
www.dryflydistilling.com

12 Bridges Gin, Portland, OR
Twelve botanicals stretch across the palate in every sip of this Portland, Oregon-produced gin, aptly named for 12 bridges that expand across the Williamette and Columbia rivers. A marriage of London dry gin and Dutch genever, 12 Bridges exudes flavors of spicy ginger, sweet Norwegian blue juniper, citrus, and cucumber—the latter of which is infused into the gin during the distillation process.
www.integrityspirits.com

High West Distillery, Park City, UT
Snow skiis are the dress code at this “gastro distillery” residing in the Rocky Mountains, where visitors come to partake in snacks and liquid sustenance after a day on the slopes. The first legal distillery in Utah since the 1870s, High West produces Rendezvous Rye Whiskey (a non chill-filtered blend), as well as Vodka 7000, which is made from locally-grown oats and snowmelt water.
www.highwestdistillery.com

Koloa Rum Company, Kauai, HI
Kauai’s first permitted distilled-spirits producer has finally opened its doors. Located on the historic Kilohana Plantation, the Koloa Rum Company recently began producing small batches of micro-distilled rum with sugar sourced from the Gay & Robinson Plantation (the oldest operating sugar mill in Hawaii). Koloa’s onsite tasting room will offer samples and educate visitors about the history of rum and sugarcane in Hawaii.
www.koloarum.com

RND Vodka, Colorado/Santa Barbara, CA
Nano-scientist Michael Wrysta is the main brain behind RND vodka, a spirit obsessed with purity. Recently introduced to the Santa Barbara, Calif. market, RND is custom-made at a craft distillery in Colorado, a region known for its exceptionally pure Rocky Mountain water. Distillation of the corn-based spirit occurs 10 times through a continuous glass column still, resulting in a product that is simply ethereal in flavor.
www.rndvodka.com

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Move Over Turkey. Bring on the Pumpkin!

The pumpkin is a master of disguise. Cloaked in cream, eggs, or cheese, it can cleverly conceal its nutritious bounty. Dressed judiciously, however, its role as a wholesome food becomes easily recognizable.

Rich in fiber, potassium, and beta-carotene (an antioxidant that may help prevent heart disease and certain types of cancer), it can be a welcome guest at any health-conscious diner’s table. At only 80 calories per cup, it’s no wonder most jack-o’-lanterns smile.

This plump, wholesome fruit has been featured on Thanksgiving menus for almost 400 years, yet our modern recipe bears little resemblance to the pilgrim’s svelte original. Capitalizing on its naturally delicious flavor, the colonists simply stewed the squash with vinegar, brown sugar, and cinnamon, or filled it with milk and baked it whole. Many of us, however, like to laden our pumpkin with extra fat and calories—a difference that costs us an average of 14 grams of fat and 300 hundred calories per serving. With its buttery texture and subtle, earthy sweetness, pumpkin doesn’t require an army of rich ingredients to make it taste delicious. Often, one small pat of butter and sprinkling of fresh herbs or brown sugar will do.

While fresh pumpkin is available only a few months per year, the canned variety is a year-round resident at your local supermarket—giving you great reason to incorporate it into your daily diet. Not only is canned pumpkin undoubtedly easy to prepare—a couple twists of the can opener and you’re done—it’s just as nutritious as its fresh counterpart. It also tends to be more consistent in texture and flavor, making it the preferred choice for baking. But don’t think you need to reserve pumpkin solely for baking sweets; its versatile flavor complements savory dishes, too.

Once a can of pumpkin has been opened, place the unused portion in an airtight container, and store it either in the refrigerator for up to one week, or in the freezer for up to three months. But with its ample health benefits and appeasing flavor, it’s unlikely you’ll have leftovers.

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Singita's Boulder Lodge, South Africa

Leopard sightings are common at the superlative Singita Boulders Lodge on the banks of the Sabi Sand River on the western border of Kruger National Park, where a perennial flow of water and groves of acacia and marula trees attracts a wealth of wildlife.

Luxury is the word of choice here, where 12 spacious suites (including two double family suites) feature their own private game-viewing deck with heated plunge pool, spacious bathroom, double-sided fireplace, indoor/outdoor showers, and vast, floor-to-ceiling savannah views. The dramatic African terrain has been infused into the interior design, in a palette of stonework; rich, chocolate brown leather; textured fabrics; and hand-felled wood furnishings. After a awe-inspiring day of safari in the African bush, birdwatching (over 400 species can be found here), or a rejuvenating sea mud wrap at the spa, guests can enjoy a superb fusion of Asian, pan-African, and modern European cuisine beneath the lantern-lit trees at twilight or in the stonewalled, candlelit dining room. Three meals a day are included in the room rate, as are all wine and spirits, and guided safaris.

Sabi Sand Game Reserve
Kruger National Park
Mpumalanga province, South Africa
Lodge contact number: +27 (0)13 735 5456; US reservations: (212) 967 5895
Website: www.singita.com; reservations@singita.com

Photo Credit: Singita Boulders Lodge

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A Haven for South African Wines

Residing in Cape Town’s stylish Victoria & Alfred Waterfront district, the Wine Loft is a stellar feature at the new One&Only resort, where guests come to enjoy not only the most luxurious accommodations in the city, but also one of the largest collections of South African wines in the world.

Adjacent to Gordon Ramsay’s maze restaurant, the Wine Loft houses over 5,000 bottles of wine, including 450 labels and nearly 100 wines by the glass. Wines are organized by terroir and regional style—rather than labels and brand names—and include both rare, older vintages (Meerlust Rubicon 1993) and new, boutique-style offerings (Eben Sadie’s Palladius). At the Chef’s Table, guests can partake in a sumptuous,10-course, wine-paired meal or participate in special tasting sessions hosted by local wineries. For those wishing to expand their South African wine erudition, the One&Only's introductory Wines of the Cape course is an excellent option.

The Wine Loft
One&Only Cape Town
Dock Road
Victoria & Alfred Waterfront
Cape Town 8001, South Africa
Resort number: +27 21 431 5230; Reservations: (888) 877-7528
www.oneandonlyresorts.com

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Bruichladdich 21 Defines the End of an Era

With the prowess to impart rich, creamy, fruity nuances to Scotch whisky during the aging process, Spanish sherry casks have been utilized by whisky producers since the 19th century. But as the sale and production of sherry continues to decline, many whisky producers are preparing for the extinction of the sherry cask.

“It’s really the end of an era,” says Mark Reynier, managing director of Bruichladdich Distillery on Scotland’s Isle of Islay. In a commemorative wave farewell, Bruichladdich has released a limited-edition 21-year-old whisky, $240 for 700 ml, which has been aged in the distillery’s rare collection of oloroso sherry butts for more than two decades. The rich nose radiates candied orange peel, burnt caramel, and cinnamon bark. Non-chill filtering provides an exceptionally honest flavor profile of dried apricots, toasted walnuts, raisins, and dark chocolate. It is Bruichladdich’s richest, full-bodied Scotch whisky to date and will likely be one of the last sherry expressions it releases. (www.bruichladdich.com)

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Spreading Like Wildfire: Smoky Cocktails

At DOSA on Fillmore, San Francisco’s newest South Indian eatery, mixologist/consultant Jonny Raglin strives to create cocktails that can stand up to the restaurant’s rich, pungently-spiced cuisine. For this, he turns smoke, one of the freshest and most innovative cocktail flavors to recently waft across the country.

The Smoked Cup—a fragrant blend of mezcal, Pimm’s black cardamom tincture, ginger beer, and cucumber dusted with smoked salt—is heady and refreshing, with a delicate smoky finish that lingers on the palate. “Smoke is an amazing flavor because it transcends the normal concept of taste,” says Josh Durr of Molecular Bartending in Louisville, Ky. “It’s not sour, bitter, sweet, or salty, but it could be considered umami.”

To permeate a cocktail with a smoky flavor, some bartenders place ingredients such as spirits, liquids, or garnishes directly into a smoker. At New York’s Tailor, for example, bartender Eben Freeman embellishes The Waylon, a Bourbon-based cocktail, with cola syrup that has been smoked over cherry and alder wood. Durr prefers to smoke only the cocktail’s ancillary ingredients, which he finds gives the drink an intricate finish.

With bacon’s recent rise to cult-like status, it was only a matter of time before it’s smoky appeal found its way into the cocktail. Peter Vestinos, beverage director at Wirtz Beverage Group, and others like Don Lee from New York’s PDT, infuse bacon into spirits by a technique called “fat washing,” which involves steeping hot bacon in a spirit for 4 to 6 hours, and then freezes it until the fat solidifies and can be skimmed off. Vestinos, former bartender at Sepia in New York, utilized bacon-infused vodka in his Bacon Bloody Mary, which is combined with maple syrup, tomato juice, and liquid smoke, and served in maple-sugar-rimmed glass. “It is possible for smoke to overpower a cocktail, however,” Vestinos warns. “Smoky cocktails should be like smoked meat. The meat should be the focus, while the smoke adds a complementary layer of flavor.”

Kim Haasarud of Liquid Architecture prefers to use naturally smoky spirits in her cocktails, such as mezcal, which she blends with blood orange juice in her Sunburned Margarita. Others, like Peter Vestino, give their cocktails a subtle smoky flavor by using a smoky Islay Scotch as an ingredient or glass rinse.

“The most important thing to remember is that flavor balance is key,” says Josh Durr. “Too much smoke can leave you not wanting to relive the experience.”

Instructions for smoking spirits at home:
Place your chosen spirit (or liqueur, syrup, garnish, etc.) into a shallow pan and place, uncovered, over aromatic wood in a conventional grill. Tightly seal the grill with a lid and allow the mixture to smoke. Sample every 30 minutes until the desired flavor is achieved.

Orchard Smoked Toddy
By Josh Durr, Molecular Bartending

1 1/4 oz apple wood smoked rye whiskey
1/4 oz freshly-squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon of clover honey
1/4 cup of hot water

Directions: Build in an Irish coffee cup. Stir well until honey is dissolved. Garnish with a sliver of ginger.

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The Spirit of Scotland: Whisky With a Smile

If the Scotch whisky industry was a man, I would be in love. Surely he would be the “sensitive-type”—unashamed to show his emotions, honest, loyal, respectful, and kind. Public Displays of Affection would be perfectly acceptable; and I would always feel protected.

My first rendezvous with SWI (as I like to call him) occurred during a recent trip to Scotland, during which I had planned to pilfer a taste not only of the Scottish countryside, but also the native drink: Scotch whisky. The date took place at historic Dalmore, a distillery snuggled amongst the grey-flannelled Scottish Highlands. And when we were introduced, via Mr. Richard Paterson, award-winning Master Scotch Blender for Whyte and Mackay Distillers, I was instantly smitten—and not just for Paterson’s matching pink tie and kerchief. Paterson was giving a master class on “the proper way to drink Scotch,”—a process, I soon learned, that begins with a gracious salutation to the Scotch itself.

“Helloooo. How aaarrre yoooou?” Paterson had called out to his dram. The hope was that the Scotch would respond with the lilting aroma of Scotland itself: Warmth, passion, sweetness, and spice—scents that not only describe the nuances of Scotch whisky, but also the people who make the whisky industry function like a well-oiled Pot Still.

Paterson had spent the first half hour of class expertly getting our attention. This included slinging drams of Scotch over his shoulder, detonating confetti poppers, and relaying the precise details of Abraham Lincoln’s assassination…and Scotland’s square mileage…and its annual rainfall…and the nautical length of each coast—“Did you get all that?” he had quipped.
When we arrived at the tasting portion of the class, Paterson poured himself a dram of “new-make spirit” (un-aged whisky), then grandly swirled the Scotch around his glass to “arouse its scent.”

“The only way to make sure your Scotch is up to standard, is to smell it,” Paterson announced, dipping his nose into the dram’s pear-shaped body. “When I say ‘Hello’ to this whisky, it replies, ‘Hello, I’m 68% alcohol.’ So I disregard that.” Paterson double-dipped for another whiff. “Then I ask, ‘How are you?’ The whisky replies, ‘Well, I’m in a bad mood. I’m hot. I’m grumpy. I’m really rather angry.’” I began to speculate how much whisky a Master Blender must sample each day.

“What the whisky is telling you,” Paterson revealed, “is that it needs to go…To Sleep. It needs to sleep for 10, 15, 20 years—we’re looking for perfection.” He exchanged the Scotch for a sample of The Dalmore’s 12-year-old single Highland malt, took a swig, then invited the whisky to “simply relax” in his mouth, “allowing the warmth of [his] tongue release the Scotch’s flavor.”

“Mmm. Mm Hmm. Mm Hmm. Mmm. Mmmm…” he contemplated, one finger twirling in front of his closed mouth like a plane’s propeller. Nearly a minute passed as we waited for the diagnosis. “Ahhh! Beautiful citrus. A lot of orange peel, spice, and a bit of marzipan lingering at the back. This is what you’re looking for—for the true passion of the Scotch to come through.”

If Paterson’s exuberance for Scotch whisky leaves your palate skeptical, it’s probably because Scotch either:

A.) Reminds you how much you drank in college
B.) Is “a manly man’s drink” (to quote my mother)
C.) Tastes bad

For those who chose C., perhaps it’s time to contemplate changing your answer to D.) None of the above. Before setting out on my Scotch whisky crusade, I wasn’t convinced I liked Scotch, either. Frankly, the thought of spending 10 days dousing my uninitiated liver with “a manly man’s drink” was a bit unnerving. (‘Would a pink dress be considered too girly for Scotch drinking?’ for example.) But once I discovered that thousands of Scots had fought to their death for the stuff, I decided to give it a shot—er, uh—a dram.

“One of the biggest mistakes that people make when trying Scotch for the first time, is to drink it neat,” laments Jonathan Driver, Malt Whisky Director for Diageo Distillers. “They try it neat and think ‘Oh, it’s not me.’ But if you want to gain complete control over Scotch’s flavor, dilute it with a bit of ice cold water. Not only does it make it easier to drink, but it new awakens flavor—it’s amazing.”

“It’s important to remember that what we provide in the bottle is a concentrate,” says Bill Bergius, Brand Heritage Director for Allied Domecq's Scotch Malts Portfolio. An avid whisky drinker for 30 years, Bergius still adds up to 80% water when he feels its necessary.
For those who loathe Scotch’s nose, Driver suggests serving it either on the rocks or ice-cold to muffle its scent. One of his favorite vices: A dram of frozen Dalwhinnie with a slice of deeply chocolate cake. I’ll attest: It’s delicious.

“Scotch is a flavor that you really need to spend time getting used to—like anchovies or caviar,” he explains. “If you don’t like it straight away, it doesn’t mean it’s not right for you. Try it again in a month—you may surprise yourself.”

Bergius was right. And I was secretly relieved. I certainly didn’t want to be known ‘round the glen as the American Whisky Wimp. And while Day One may have seen me with a Scotch/water ratio of 20/80, by Day Ten I was swigging back 80/20 with the rest of the MacLeods.

The roots of Scotch whisky have run firm and deep throughout Scotland for more than a millennia. Likely making its debut around 500 A.D. (by “a group of alcoholics known as Irish monks,” according to Paterson,) whisky was an instant hit. The Scots dubbed it uisge beathe in Gaelic, meaning water of life, and the moniker couldn’t have been more accurate.

To the Scots, the spirit’s power seemed almost supernatural. Thought to possess medicinal qualities, it was used to treat everything from smallpox to sword wounds. It also had the uncanny ability to appease a colicky baby, who learned early on that it was the ultimate soothe-all. Scotch pacified kings. Scotch solidified business deals. Scotch strengthened friendships and banished the notorious Scottish chill. Elizabeth Grant may have said it best in her 1898 Memoirs of a Highland Lady, which documented her time spent at Glenlivet Distillery: “That dram was the Highland prayer, it began, accompanied, and ended all things.”

Buried like a precious truffle within the Scottish Highlands, the secluded town of Glenlivet was considered Ground Zero for the whisky smuggling trade during the 18th century. The newly-united parliament had just imposed its first tax on Scotch, and the whisky distillers saw no reason to pay the government for their native drink. Of the 14,000 illicit distilleries that cropped up across Scotland, more than 200 settled within the small glen alone. Ironically, the very man who had imposed the Scotch tax, King George IV (of “Georgie Porgie” nursery rhyme fame), chose Glenlivet’s illicit whisky as his favorite. According to Grant, “The King drank nothing else.”

Unfortunately, many Glenlivet distillers fought to their death before new legislation in 1823 made Scotch whisky a viable source of revenue for both the government and the distillers. The Glenlivet Distillery was the first to “go legal” and is currently the best-selling single malt whisky in the United States.

“Scotch whisky has always been the blood of Scotland,” says Jim McEwan, a 40-year veteran of the industry. On the petite Isle of Islay, where McEwan acts as Bruichladdich Distillery’s Production Director, Scotch production is an integral part of the economy. “If a distillery closes, the heart of the community stops beating,” he says. “We rely on the industry for our livelihood.”
“For many, Scotch whisky is Scotland,” agrees David Williamson, Public Affairs Manager at the Scotch Whisky Association.

“It’s inextricably linked to our environment, culture, and people. It’s a great source of pride that a spirit made from simple raw materials—in a country of less than five million people—has become such a global icon.”

But Scotch whisky’s staying power would not be possible if it weren’t for SWI’s ceaseless devotion to its native spirit. At age 27, Ewan Gunn, Brand Ambassador for Dewar’s Scotch Whisky, has already spent six years in the industry and doesn’t plan on abandoning it anytime soon.

“Once a person starts working in the Scotch whisky industry, they rarely leave,” says Gunn. “It’s like a large family. Different distilleries trade whisky on an almost daily basis, they share bottling facilities, and even help each other out if there’s a crisis—in how many other industries would that take place?” McEwan agrees.

“We all have great respect for each other—no one is ever badmouthed,” he says. “I’m so grateful to be involved in this business.”

Fortunate for McEwan, Gunn, and the nearly 41,000 other Scots who depend on whisky production for employment, the industry won’t be inhaling its last breath anytime soon. According to Williamson, “Scotch whisky is one of the UK’s top five export earners, with annual profits well over $3 billion.”

But such success does not come without imitation, however, and the Scotch whisky industry is forever embroiled in a fight to preserve the quality and integrity of its product.

“Traders have been known to exploit Scotch's reputation,” says Williamson. “They might misuse the term Scotch whisky on a product that is neither Scotch nor whisky, or use an indirect indication on the label—perhaps a tartan design or a figure in a kilt—to misleadingly suggest Scottish origin. It’s our top priority to provide worldwide legal protection for Scotch.”

Regardless of how many people try to steal the identity of Scotch whisky, however, they will never rob the Scots of their pride, or the permanent warmth that 1500 years of Scotch drinking has instilled on their character.

“When you look into a glass of Scotch, look for the heart and soul of the people who made the whisky,” says McEwan. “You’ll see our integrity, honesty, and history. You’ll see our passion.”

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Pasolivo Artisan Olive Oil

Tucked beneath a canopy of knobby-kneed oaks, Pasolivo, in Paso Robles, Calif., creates what are perhaps some of the most vibrantly-flavored olive oils in the world. At least that’s the message from the year’s International Olive Oil Competition in Los Angeles, where the company won two best-in-show awards.

In an area known primarily as one of the country’s most prolific wine regions, Pasolivo’s tasting room and shop are a welcome sight to weary, numb-tongued wine tasters who are in need of a palate cleanser. There, visitors can sample the yield of over 9,000 estate-grown olive trees. Not only are the olives hand-harvested, they’re also crushed, bottled, and labeled on-site.
“It’s almost unheard of for an olive oil producer to do everything themselves,” says manager Joeli Yaguda, whose husband, Joshua, is the company’s olive miller. “It’s a massive commitment, but it really allows us to control every step of the production process.”

Glowing in various shades of citrine, Pasolivo’s extra-virgin oils are fervent in flavor. The Estate Tuscan blend exudes a grassy intensity and sharp, spicy finish; it’s particularly pungent within the first three months after bottling when it is known as olio nuovo, or “new oil.”

Customers seeking a companion for grilled fish—or virtually any vegetable on the planet—gravitate towards Pasolivo’s citrus olive oils. Radiating the summery perfume of freshly-squeezed tangerines, limes, and meyer lemons, these oils are made by adding pure citrus oil to the olives while they’re crushed.

After an informative guided tour, which shows off an impressive Italian Pieralisi olive mill, the tasting bar becomes fills customers who clamor for samples. Chunks of local artisanal bread are dipped in pools of olive oil then sprinkled with feathery flakes of Cyprus Black Lava Salt. Oohs and aahs ensue. Shopping baskets become heavy—not only with olive oil—but also with handmade chocolates infused with tangerine olive oil, olives stuffed with bleu cheese, and bread—an ultra-chewy, thick-crusted loaf by Ciro Pasciuto that is sold for $3 a pound on Fridays and Saturdays.

The olive oils range in price from $16 to $30 for 200-milliliter to 500-milliliter bottles. Act with haste, however: Pasolivo’s oils have sold out each year since the company began selling them to the public seven years ago.

Pasolivo Olive Oil
8530 Vineyard Drive, Paso Robles, CA 93446
Phone: (805) 227-0186
www.pasolivo.com
Hours: Friday through Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and by appointment.
Prices: Range between $16-$30 per bottle

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Inkaterra's Urubamba Villas, Peru

An exquisite sojourn exists deep in the heart of Urubamba, an ancient village in Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas. Surrounded by the sheer cliffs of the Andean mountains, fragrant lavender buds, and a patchwork quilt of agricultural countryside, Inkaterra's Urubamba Villas offer contemporary accommodations that seamlessly preserve the vibrant flavor of Peru’s culture.

Operated by eco-travel pioneer Inkaterra—best known for its multi award-winning boutique hotel at Machu Picchu—each of the four adobe-style villas is adorned with expansive, wood-beam ceilings; intricately-woven textiles; and local handicrafts; and comes equipped with a maid and personal chef who specializes in the local cuisine. For breakfast, golden quinoa pancakes with passion fruit syrup are often the meal of choice; in the evenings, savory alpaca, cuy (guinea pig), or a rich, quinoa risotto may be on the menu.

For those wishing to venture beyond the villa gates, a private bilingual guide can be arranged to lead you through the traditional, Quechua-speaking region, where an ancient marketplace, the archaeological ruins of Pisac, and Ollantaytambo—the gateway to Machu Picchu—are only minutes away.

www.Inkaterra.com
Toll free from USA and Canada (800) 442-5042
Rates begin at $150 USD per person, per night.

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From Adrbeg Distillery: A Secret Ingredient

Perched on the Isle of Islay, a raw, mist-driven island off the west coast of Scotland, Ardbeg Distillery has been renowned for its complex, smoky Scotch for nearly 200 years. After the Old Kiln Café was added to its visitor’s center in 1997, however, the Scotch was forced to share the spotlight—at least to those who appreciate a good meal.

“Our food is very unique to the area so everyone really embraces it,” explains Jackie Thomson, the café’s manager. “We found there to be a real demand for this sort of thing.”

Housed in Ardbeg’s original 1815 kiln room and malt barn, the café emerges like a warm, welcoming beacon on the often blustery landscape, its twin pagoda roofs rising ceremoniously into the air like points on a crown. Inside, the visitor’s shop bustles, while appreciative murmurs from the adjoining whisky tasting and nosing bar acts as soothing mood music. The furnishings are modest. The mood, relaxed. The smell, marvelous—a mixture of cinnamon and peat smoke, with a dash of salt delivered from the surrounding sea.

“Originally, we planned to serve only simple treats like scones and tea,” says Thomson, whose husband, Stuart, acts as Distillery Manager. But resident baker, Mary McKechnie, had a yen for culinary experimentation, especially when it came to Ardbeg’s arsenal of barley grist.

Consisting of barley that has been malted, dried, and crushed, grist is the primary ingredient in Scotch. And on Islay, the grist is often dried over peat, a practice that imparts a deeply smoky flavor to most of the whisky produced in the region.

“Islay distillers have traditionally used peat-heated kilns to dry the malted barley because there is no coal and very few trees on the island,” explains Adam Hannett, a mashman at neighboring Bruichladdich Distillery. “That’s why so many Islay malts have such a pronounced smoky taste.”

With a mildly sweet, chestnutty flavor, an aroma that declares “beach barbeque,” and a texture that looks suspiciously like wood chips, peated grist is an unusual fellow—definitely not the sort you’d invite to tea without getting to know him a bit better. So what gave McKechnie the guts to graciously wave him into her kitchen?

“We really like to utilize all of our resources,” explains Thomson. “We use locally-grown produce, Islay-raised meat, regional fish—why not the distillery’s grist?”

Well, for starters, Ardbeg produces the most heavily-peated Scotch in all of Scotland. Many would consider baking with its grist a shameful waste of some potentially great whisky. But in the battle between commonsense and a chef’s curiosity, McKechnie’s curiosity triumphed after she casually slipped some of Ardbeg’s grist into a batch of bread dough. The result was an epiphany: plump, chewy bread rolls enveloped in an earthy veil of peat smoke.

“People are really taken aback by the flavor because they don’t expect bread to taste smoky,” says Thomson. “But it’s incredibly delicious. The grist gives the bread just a wee bit of smokiness; the flavor really leaves an impression.” McKechnie likes to serve the rolls with Scottish gravlax and a dram of Ardbeg 75, or alongside a thick, brawny stew, like lentil with smoked ham.

After its debut appearance, Ardbeg’s grist quickly found its way itself into other menu items, like the Scottish cranachan (fresh whipped cream and local raspberries speckled with sweetened, toasted grist), baked chicken wrapped in a crunchy grist-Parmesan cheese crust, and that revenge-inspiring clootie dumpling. And while Thomson doesn’t see the café expanding to include dinner service anytime soon, it has begun to offer catering services for events like weddings, private parties, and music concerts.

Steeped in Scottish tradition, Islay isn’t your typical trend-setting territory. That alone may explain the Café’s success.

“We’re always looking for something different,” says Thomson. “That’s what keeps our customers coming back.”

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The Epicurean Scribe

About

Sarah Doyle is a seasoned culinary professional with extensive journalism and marketing experience in food, spirits, wine, and travel. She has written for over 40 publications, including the New York Times, the Boston Globe, Gourmet, Wine & Spirits, Saveur, Food & Wine, Town & Country, and Robb Report, among others.

A graduate of culinary school and Bruichladdich Distillery's Malt Whisky Academy, Sarah has developed original recipes for numerous publications, including Cooking Light, Self, Health, and Cooking Pleasures. When she is not traveling the world in search of new experiences and flavors, she can be heard singing the praises of single malt Scotch whisky and Southern Rhone varietals.

High Spirits: The Newest Distilleries in the West

Move Over Turkey. Bring on the Pumpkin!

Singita's Boulder Lodge, South Africa

A Haven for South African Wines

Bruichladdich 21 Defines the End of an Era

Spreading Like Wildfire: Smoky Cocktails

The Spirit of Scotland: Whisky With a Smile

Pasolivo Artisan Olive Oil

Inkaterra's Urubamba Villas, Peru

From Adrbeg Distillery: A Secret Ingredient

The Epicurean Scribe

About

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