Central Coast Day Trip: Templeton, Calif.

This Paso Robles neighbor is worth a day trip. Read on to discover the underdog of California's Central Coast.

Why go now? This often-overlooked Central Coast destination is brimming with small-town charm and newfound epicurean appeal.

The sweet spot: Catch May’s lingering-green hills before summer’s triple digits hit.

Where it is: 6 miles south of Paso. Population: 6,900. Dress Code: Cowboy boots and a reuseable shopping bag

Getting there: Templeton is about 160 miles south of San Jose and 211 miles north of Los Angeles, in San Luis Obispo County. (Map)

Namesake: Named after Templeton Crocker, the grandson of Central Pacific Railroad co-founder Charles Crocker, Templeton is the only town along the El Camino Real that isn’t named after a saint.

Most popular Saturday morning destination: Templeton Park is home to the most bountiful—and beautiful—farmer’s market in the county. (Crocker and 6^th St.; Sat. 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m.)

Where to fuel up for the day: Joebella Coffee Roasters serves expertly-roasted, organic, fair-trade coffee and tea. (1121 Rossi Rd., suite C; 805/461-4822)

Eat a sandwich named after a winemaker
Famished wine tasters will find much-needed respite at Farmstand 46 (3750 Highway 46; 805/239-3661), where a bright array of artisan sandwiches, salads, and wood-fired pizzas are on offer. The staff works diligently to use local, organic, sustainable ingredients whenever possible, many of which are grown in Farmstand’s estate garden. Next-door neighbor, Four Vines winery, makes choosing beverages a no-brainer.

Make Your own Goat Cheese
Tucked away along a bucolic stretch of Templeton backcountry, Happy Acres Family Farm (1955 Templeton Rd.; 805/434-7580) is a new Central Coast treasure that produces a marvelous assortment of farmstead goat cheeses, goats milk-based body lotions (highly recommended), organic produce, and farm-fresh eggs. Nearly 200 goats—all known by name—are cared for by co-owner Stephanie Simonis, whose adoration for her animals is tireless and charming. Special classes invite guests to participate in the goat cheese-making process by milking their own goat and flavoring their own cheese blend.

Clavo and Concerts in the Park
Locals eagerly anticipate the outdoor concert season in Templeton Park (Crocker and 6th St.; Weds. 6:30 - 8:30 pm, 805/434-4900), where they gather beneath a canopy of ancient oaks to picnic and listen to live music. Nearby, Clavo Cellars (315 S. Main St.; 805/226-0174) offers pre-concert appetizers and an excellent selection of picnic-worthy wines, like an expertly-balanced 2008 Grenache Rose ($18).

Dine in a Central Coast Standout
Restaurant owner Ian McPhee was a modern pioneer of sorts when he chose little-known Templeton as the home for McPhee’s Grill (416 S. Main St.; 805/434-3204) in 1994. Today, McPhee’s is one of the most noteworthy restaurants on the entire Central Coast, offering a menu of exceptional New American fare (or whatever Chef Ian is in the mood for), such as ancho duck and cheese quesadillas, and roasted quail with mushroom caponata. At 125 years-old, the building that houses McPhee’s is the most historic in town.

Sip and Savor
15c Degrees Wine Shop & Bar is indispensable to wine lovers looking for a superb selection of global wines and hard-to-find, Central Coast favorites. Owner and Certified Sommelier Ali Rush Carscaden offers warm, educated advice about the over 500 wines here, as well as the exceptional tapas-inspired bar menu. Generous cheese plates, imported meats, savory paninis, and a host of microbrewed beers are all on offer. (1121 Rossi Rd., suite A; 805/434-1554)

Pier 46 Seafood
Sustainability is the emphasis at Pier 46 Seafood shop and restaurant, where customers relish some of the county’s highest-quality seafood. In addition to the shop’s excellent selection of freshly-caught fish, shellfish, oysters, and edible accoutrement, Pier 46 offers an extensive restaurant menu, including first-rate fish and chips, robust cioppino, fish tacos with pepperjack cheese, and tender calamari served on toasted sourdough. (1131 Rossi Rd.; 805/434-1950)

See the Countryside
Flanked by gnarled oaks, wildflowers, and orange and avocado groves, Santa Rita Road is a hidden jewel. At its highest point, you get 360° views of Paso wine country and the Pacific Ocean.

Stay
An authentic wine country getaway can be found at Venteux Vineyards (pronounced vin-too), where visitors can not only sample the winery’s selection of bold, Rhone-inspired wines, but also find overnight accommodations in a serene vineyard setting. The small Farmhouse-style inn features rooms that are both chic and charming, and come accompanied by gourmet breakfasts on the expansive wraparound porch. (Rooms start a $245; 1795 Las Tablas Rd.; 805/369-0127)

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In Thailand: Dodging Death for Frogs Legs & Eggplant

Resting silently beneath the crowd like a slumbering serpent, a single train track winds its way through the heart of Mae Klong food market in Thailand’s small province of Samut Songkhram. Flanked heavily by bushels of crisp winged beans, water spinach, bulbous knobs of jack fruit, and palettes of artfully-arranged fish gawking in unison, the narrow track serves not only as a place for vendors to display their wares, but also as the market’s main walkway. Until, that is, until the train makes an appearance.

Today, I am at Mae Klong market, not only feast my eyes on Thailand’s edible bounty, but also observe a phenomenon that some viewers on YouTube have deemed “impossible,” “a hoax,” or “genius video manipulation.” I follow the train track deep into the crowd, where hordes of hurried shoppers choreograph an impromptu dance of lively bargaining, shuffling shopping bags, and the occasional stumbling over a stray cat.

I watch baby eels squirm in a blue plastic bucket. I observe that frogs-on-a-stick are a popular lunch item. I photograph a mountain range of curry pastes as red as the Sedona desert.

Suddenly, my tour guide grabs my arm and parks me one foot from the train track. “Stay here,” he instructs, his black eyes gleaming like obsidian. I am about to witness something extraordinary.

As I struggle to see further down the congested track, I detect the faint wheeze of a train whistle in the distance. “Rót fai!” a woman urgently calls out. "Train!" A frenzied electricity fills the air as vendors hastily pull their wares away from the track. (Apparently, it is a mere eight inches to the safety zone.) Then, in a Murphy bed-like fashion, the overhead awnings fold upward and back, and my face is instantly flooded with sunlight. The train whistle grows louder. Within a mere 60 seconds, the track has become a no man’s land, a blank canvas of bolts and steel that disappears into the distance. A tourist lingers between the rails and is swiftly scolded by a man hauling his eggplants to safety.

The safety zone beside the track is now at full capacity, and I find myself squished between two giggly girls in matching school uniforms on one side and a huge tub of shrimp on the other. The ground begins to vibrate. Suddenly, a bright yellow train car bursts into view and I suck in my gut thinking that the extra inch of space I create might save my life. I watch with a combination of amazement and horror as the train glides right in front of our toes and noses. And then, it is gone.

In a fury of organized chaos, the vendors quickly push their wares back towards the track, the awnings unfold, the track floods with people, and barely a minute later, it is business as usual.

Operated by the State Railway of Thailand, the Mae Klong Railway stretches from Bangkok’s little-known Wong Wian Yai station to Samut Songkhram (approximately 45 miles to the southwest). Prior to the construction of the railway in 1904, locals regularly gathered in Mae Klong to sell fresh produce and seafood. When plans for the new railway revealed that the train would drive straight through their gathering place, a lack of available space convinced the locals to stay put, and no law could force them to move.

Today, the train continues to run through Mae Klong food market up to eight times a day, seven days a week, and the locals don’t seem to mind. Many stay because of the inexpensive rent. Those wishing to ride the train from Bangkok can do so, but should be advised that the train track disappears abruptly at the Tha Chin river in Samut Sakhon (Mahachai), so you must exit the train and travel by ferry to the other side of the river (Ban Laem). There, you can catch your connecting train to Samut Songkhram (Mae Klong market).

If time or effort is a concern, Mae Klong market can also be reached by car or bus (the Damnoen Saduak line from Bangkok’s southern bus terminal). For more information, visit the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s website at www.tourismthailand.org.

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Travel Guide: Edinburgh, Scotland

Often considered one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, Edinburgh (pronounced Edin-burra) is virtually two cities in one, with Princes Street acting as the dividing line between medieval Old Town and 18th century New Town. The sum of these two parts makes up Britain’s second most-visited city, where visitors come to explore the majestic Edinburgh Castle, world-class museums, lush greenscapes, and the largest arts event in the world: The International Festival. With a growing menu of first-rate restaurants and cutting-edge hotels, Scotland’s capital city is a place you will want to return to again and again.

HOTELS

From old-world elegance to fashionista-inspired sophistication, Edinburgh’s hotels offer something for everyone. Myriad mid-priced boutique hotels have opened at a record pace, not only expanding lodging options, but also giving guests exceptional in-house eateries and hip bars, to boot.

Hotel du Vin
Offering a seamless blend of Scottish warmth and French sophistication, Hotel du Vin is one of Edinburgh’s most desirable boutique hotels. Nestled beside the Bedlam Theater in Old Town, the 1696 site once housed an asylum where the famous Scottish poet Robert Ferguson took his last breath. Today, the property features 47 guest rooms—including 20 studios and 6 suites— each with Egyptian cotton sheets, a plasma TV, monsoon-style shower, healthy-sized toiletries, and a selection of complimentary DVDs. Warmer weather beckons both guests and locals to take advantage of the enclosed outdoor patio (nearly a Scottish anomaly), which offers a cigar bothy, an extensive wine list, and cuisine from the exceptional Hotel du Vin Bistro. Those looking to escape the Scottish chill, however, may choose to warm up at the whisky bar with a dram of Scotland’s finest.

Address: 11 Bristo Place
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal code: EH1 1EZ
Phone: 0131 247-4900
Website: www.hotelduvin.com/edinburgh

Ten Hill Place
Doctors will feel right at home during their stay at Ten Hill Place, a hotel owned by and adjacent to Edinburgh’s Royal College of Surgeons (the oldest medical incorporation in the world). Of course, everyone will feel welcome at this 78-room property in Old Town, which features 49 executive rooms, 26 superior rooms and 4 Skyline suites. Earth tones interspersed with plum, sage, and fuchsia create an inviting palette in each room, alongside king-size beds, allergy-free duvets and pillows, free broadband (when using your own laptop), hair dryers, personal safes, and complimentary Scottish shortbread. View-lovers will adore the Skyline suites, which offer stunning views of Arthur’s Seat and the Firth of Fourth. Those seeking a convenient bite will be pleased with the in-house restaurant and bar, where a menu of reasonably-priced fare (including an extensive breakfast buffet) fits the bill.

Address: 10 Hill Place
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal code: EH8 9DS
Phone: 0131 662 2080
Website: www.tenhillplace.com; reservations: reservations@tenhillplace.com

Hotel Missoni
Those seeking an unconventional Scotland experience will fall madly in love with Hotel Missoni, a vibrant, modern outpost in a town full of tradition. Missoni, a famed Italian design house, conceived the hotel’s interior, utilizing its trademark combination of stripes, geometrics, fun patterns, and bold colors. Thankfully, the colorful modern furnishings don’t compromise on comfort, with each of the 136 rooms (including 7 suites) offering an array of amenities, including complimentary newspapers, a fabulous De’Longhi pod coffee maker, plush robes, two items of laundry cleaned, internet access, and an iPod connection. Even the bathrooms are dramatic, with their iridescent tiling, vibrantly-hued walls, and glycerin soap in perhaps violet or lime green—not to mention their excellent rain showers. Enjoy a cocktail at the space-age lobby bar before heading to Cucina, the in-house restaurant, which features a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine. How apropos.

Address: 1 George IV Bridge
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal code: EH1 1AD
Phone: 0131 220-6666
Website: www.hotelmissoni.com; info.edinburgh@hotelmissoni.com

Elmview
Situated in an attractive residential neighborhood just 1/2 mile from Princes Street, the Elmview bed and breakfast offers exceptional value in a quaint and comfortable setting. Rumor has it, the oldest golf course in Scotland lies directly across the street, and while it has been reduced to only a 36-hole “pitch and putt” course, guests are encouraged to borrow a club and practice their swing on the 500-year old site. At Elmview, guests can choose from five uniquely-decorated rooms, each with a king-sized bed, sleek bathroom with heated towel rail, personal safe, complimentary sherry, free internet access, and a welcome touch of flowers. A cozy sitting room with a well-stocked library, as well as a charming outdoor patio are also on-hand. The complimentary three-course breakfasts are superb and include a wide range of hot specialties, such as traditional Scottish “rumbledethumps” (cabbage, potatoes, and onions) and huevos rancheros.

Address: 15 Glengyle Terrace
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH3 9LN
Phone: 0131 228-1973
Website: www.elmview.co.uk; nici@elmview.co.uk

The Scotsman
The former home of the Scotsman Newspaper, this five-star boutique hotel just steps from the Royal Mile and Princes Street is the answer to those seeking Scottish elegance and tradition. Great care has been taken to preserve many of the building’s original architectural details, such as elaborate woodwork and an impressive marble staircase that was originally reserved for the newspaper’s highest echelon. Ten floors accommodate 69 rooms (including 25 suites, 1 baron suite, and 1 penthouse), all of which feature an endless list of amenities, including Egyptian cotton bedding, a bathroom with marble vanity and heated towel rail, broadband internet access, complimentary shoeshine and newspaper, private bar, satellite TV, and an Edinburgh Monopoly board—but no air conditioning. Rooms also include an extremely handy “service hatch,” which allows guests to receive room service or items from housekeeping without ever having to open the door. A huge 20,000 square-foot gym and spa are available at no charge and feature the only stainless-steel pool in Scotland, a steam room, and dry sauna. After partaking in a meal at North Brasserie, the hotel’s excellent restaurant, guests can venture into the hotel’s petite Screening Room, which offers movies to both guests and the public.

Address: 20 North Bridge
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH1 1YT
Phone: 0131 556-5565
Website: www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk; reservations@thescotsmanhotel.co.uk

The Howard
Personalized service is the priority at The Howard in Edinburgh’s New Town, where a coat-tailed butler will fulfill your every whim—or at least give you an alternative option. The atmosphere is warm and elegant here, without an ounce of stuffiness, resulting in a boutique hotel that feels nearly like a private townhouse. The 200-year old Georgian-style complex features 18 guest rooms, which boast antique furnishings along with a host of modern amenities, including an LCD flat screen TV with movies on demand, same day laundry and dry cleaning, internet access, 24-hour room service, and in-room massage treatments. Those seeking extra creature comforts should seek out a Junior or Terrace Suite, which may offer a marble bathroom with Jacuzzi, oversized clawfoot tub, rain-head shower, fireplace, kitchenette, and/or private patio. Superior, modern Scottish fare can be found at The Atholl restaurant, where an award-winning Afternoon Tea treats guests to finger sandwiches, traditional pastries, and a selection of artisan teas and coffee.

Address: 34 Great King Street
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH3 6QH
Phone: Tel: 0131 557-3500
Website: www.townhousecompany.com/the_howard

The Glasshouse
Parading behind the façade of a 150-year old church, The Glasshouse hotel is the master of disguise, rendering it a wee bit difficult to find for the uninitiated. Once inside, however, visitors find it extremely evident that they are in one of Edinburgh’s most unique, contemporary hotels. As the name suggests, towering floor-to-ceiling windows are a standout feature at this stylish, 65-room hotel at the base of Calton Hill, lending an atmosphere that is bright and modern. Guest rooms offer a wide array of amenities, such as Egyptian cotton bedding, complimentary shoeshine and newspaper, CD players with music library (on request), internet access, private bar, flat-screen satellite TV, hairdryer, 24-hour room service, and bathrobe and slippers. (Note: request a garden view room and you won’t be sorry.) There are also six suites to choose from, which are not only named after single malt Scotches, but include a gratis bottle of the room’s namesake, (not to mention roomy terraces with superb skyline views). A large, modern-style garden is also a bonus at The Glasshouse, which is perfect for cocktails or a lazy, afternoon lounge.

Address: 2 Greenside Place
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH1 3AA
Phone: 0131 525 8200
Website: www.theetoncollection.com/glasshouse; resglasshouse@theetoncollection.com

Le Monde
Scottish tradition is pushed to the wayside at this fun, cutting-edge hotel in Edinburgh’s New Town, where some of the world’s greatest cities are tastefully represented in18 individually-decorated guest rooms. While all rooms offer similar amenities—Egyptian cotton sheets, wireless internet, rainfall shower, bathrobe and slippers, L’Occitane toiletries, under-floor heating, and a Champagne and chocolate-filled mini bar—the décor varies greatly. “Tokyo,” for example, features a cherry blossom mural, red lanterns, framed silk kimonos, and dark wood furnishings, while “St. Petersburg” is bedecked in a palate of silver and ice blue, with décor modeled after Catherine the Great’s palace. Atlantis is one of the most popular suites, with its wall-size blue lightbox; cool, teal walls; and bubbling aquarium. Three restaurants and bars (Paris, Milan, and Vienna) are definitely not for the quiet set, but they do offer a wide variety of reasonably-priced fare. Those seeking a little late-night partying needn’t look further than the Shanghai Club, Le Monde’s hip, pulsating nightclub, located right on the ground floor.

Address: 16 George St.
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH2 2PF
Phone: 0131 270 3900
Website: www.lemondehotel.co.uk; reservations@lemondehotel.co.uk

The Rutland Hotel
Baroque meets modern at this fabulous boutique hotel in Edinburgh’s New Town, where exceptional attention to detail has been paid to every nook and cranny. The designers searched all over the world for the unique furnishings found throughout the hotel, including the individually-decorated guest rooms. Ornamental wallpapers, intricately-carved furnishings, ornate mirrors, and textured drapery are complemented with simple, modern accents, resulting in a look that is never busy. Twelve guest rooms feature Egyptian cotton sheets with goose down duvets, wireless internet access, a wall-mounted flat-screen TV, rain showers, complimentary newspaper and muffins, and an iPod docking station, with two “Castle Suites” offering exceptional views of Edinburgh Castle. Exceptional food can be found at The Rutland’s award-winning restaurant, which focuses on modern brasserie-style fare. Nightlife aficionados will swoon over The One Below, the hotel’s ultra-sophisticated nightclub and bar. Popular with the locals, the dark, jewel-toned space features an iBar (an interactive bar top that changes color and pattern), private iPod booths, one of the best sake collections in Britain, and an elaborate cocktail list.

Address: 1-3 Rutland Street
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH1 2AE
Phone: 0131 229-3402
Website: www.therutlandhotel.com; info@the rutlandhotel.com

The Balmoral
Originally known as the North British hotel (or “N.B.”), this luxury, Edwardian-style landmark has been an Edinburgh institution since 1902. During a major refurbishment in 2003, great care was taken to preserve the hotel’s historic features while adding a touch of modern finesse. Contemporary elegance can be found in all 168 rooms and 20 suites, which offer a wealth of amenities, including marble bathrooms, fluffy bathrobes, same-day laundry service, internet access, satellite TV, a snack basket, and a walk-in dressing room. In addition to exceptional views of Edinburgh Castle, Balmoral suites include complimentary buffet breakfast, garment pressing, unpacking and packing of luggage, a mobile phone for local calls, free in-house movies, and in-room check-in. Spa aficionados won’t be disappointed with the Balmoral’s version, which treats guests to a 15-meter swimming pool, fully-equipped gym, a dry sauna and steam room, and a candlelit relaxation room to be used post-treatment. Those in search of a good meal will be thrilled with The Balmoral’s Michelin-starred “number one” restaurant, where local ingredients are used to create modern Scottish and French-influenced cuisine. A stay at The Balmoral will not be forgotten.

Address: 1 Princes Street
Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
Postal Code: EH2 2EQ
Phone: 0131 556-2414; toll free 1 888 667 9477
Website: www.thebalmoralhotel.com; reservations.balmoral@roccofortecollection.com

For more information, go to www.VisitScotland.com

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Back to the Future: Barrel-aged Beer

With the advancement of stainless steel brewing in the 20th century, the tradition of barrel-aged beer went by the wayside. Recently, however, barrel-aging has begun to rear its heady goodness, as brewers rediscover the plush, aromatic, complex tones that wood can impart to beer. Here are three of my favorite brews.

Woodcut No. 3, Odell Brewing Co.
Woodcut No. 3 from Odell Brewing Co. in Fort Collins, Colo., is a crimson ale aged in virgin American oak barrels and conditioned in 750ml Champagne-style bottles. The third release in the brewery’s barrel-aged series, this ethereal, rust-colored brew is a marriage of Crystal, Cara, and Munich malts, which produce hints of raisins, sour plum, and oak on the nose. A palate of toffee, almonds and molasses round out a long, complex finish. Savor Woodcut No. 3 in the bottle or in the tap room, where the “Pilot System” enables guests to sample Odell’s line of experimental beers—available exclusively to visitors.
800 E. Lincoln Ave
Fort Collins, CO 80524
(970) 498-9070
www.odellbrewing.com

Old Growth Wild Ale, Trinity Brewing Company
Inspired by Flemish brown ale, Old Growth Wild Ale is an extraordinarily sour beer from the year-old Trinity Brewing Company in Colorado Springs, Colo. Aged in French oak barrels for 12-18 months and bottle-conditioned with Champagne yeast, Old Growth offers a pucker-inducing palate of tart citrus and balsamic vinegar, with a gamey nose and lengthy finish. Sample this sour concoction (and nearly 30 guest beers) at Trinity’s brewpub, which features a Slow Food-inspired menu that includes bison sliders with melted bleu cheese and vegan buffalo wings.
1466 Garden of the Gods Road
Colorado Springs, CO 80907
(719) 634-0029
www.trinitybrewing.com

Black Tot/Cerasus, Avery Brewing Company
At Avery Brewing Company in Boulder, Colo., the barrel-aged beer menu continually changing, making it highly beguiling to oak aficionados. Released in January 2010, Black Tot is a dark, chewy, imperial oatmeal stout aged in Gosling’s rum barrels. In late spring 2010, look for Cerasus, a sour cherry brew aged in Zinfandel barrels from Norman Vineyards in Paso Robles, Calif. Both of these limited releases can be enjoyed at Avery’s taproom, where exclusive tastings, live music, and special events are a regular occurrence.
5763 Arapahoe Ave.
Boulder, CO 80303
(303) 440-4324
www.averybrewing.com

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Kilchoman Distillery: Islay's New Kid on the Block

As the first new whisky producer on Scotland’s Isle of Islay in 124 years, Kilchoman (pronounced Kil-Ho-man) Distillery has a lot to prove. Joining an esteemed brotherhood that includes Laphroaig, Ardbeg, and Bowmore, Kilchoman strives to set itself apart by growing and malting its own barley (100 tons) and eventually performing every phase of the whisky-producing process on-site.

Currently, Kilchoman (one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries) produces a modest 90,000 liters annually, with 80% aged in bourbon barrels from Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace distillery, and the remaining 20% in fresh Oloroso sherry butts. Limited production ensured that Kilchoman’s “Inaugural Release” in September 2009 was snatched up in an angel’s heartbeat. Aged for 2.5-3 years in bourbon barrels, with an additional 6 month stint in sherry casks, Kilchoman’s first expression is laced with peat smoke in true Islay tradition and tastes far beyond its years.

Inaugural Release:
46% ABV; £37.00

Kilchoman Distillery
Rockside Farm, Bruichladdich
Isle of Islay
Scotland
PA49 7UT
T. +44 (0)1496 850 011
F. +44 (0)1496 850 156
www.kilchomandistillery.com

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High Spirits: The Newest Distilleries in the West

Boutique distilleries are blooming across the West like wildflowers as distillers begin to discover the region’s exceptional natural resources. Varying in shades of flavor and character, these handcrafted spirits are destined to satisfy nearly every palate or mood.

Dry Fly Distillery, Spokane, WA
A passion for fly fishing and the beauty of the Pacific Northwest inspired Don Poffenroth and Kent Fleischmann to create Dry Fly Distillery, a venture that would embrace sustainable resources and local ingredients. The first grain distillery in Washington State since before Prohibition, Dry Fly produces gin, vodka, and a newly-released Wheat Whiskey that’s nearly impossible to keep on the shelves.
www.dryflydistilling.com

12 Bridges Gin, Portland, OR
Twelve botanicals stretch across the palate in every sip of this Portland, Oregon-produced gin, aptly named for 12 bridges that expand across the Williamette and Columbia rivers. A marriage of London dry gin and Dutch genever, 12 Bridges exudes flavors of spicy ginger, sweet Norwegian blue juniper, citrus, and cucumber—the latter of which is infused into the gin during the distillation process.
www.integrityspirits.com

High West Distillery, Park City, UT
Snow skiis are the dress code at this “gastro distillery” residing in the Rocky Mountains, where visitors come to partake in snacks and liquid sustenance after a day on the slopes. The first legal distillery in Utah since the 1870s, High West produces Rendezvous Rye Whiskey (a non chill-filtered blend), as well as Vodka 7000, which is made from locally-grown oats and snowmelt water.
www.highwestdistillery.com

Koloa Rum Company, Kauai, HI
Kauai’s first permitted distilled-spirits producer has finally opened its doors. Located on the historic Kilohana Plantation, the Koloa Rum Company recently began producing small batches of micro-distilled rum with sugar sourced from the Gay & Robinson Plantation (the oldest operating sugar mill in Hawaii). Koloa’s onsite tasting room will offer samples and educate visitors about the history of rum and sugarcane in Hawaii.
www.koloarum.com

RND Vodka, Colorado/Santa Barbara, CA
Nano-scientist Michael Wrysta is the main brain behind RND vodka, a spirit obsessed with purity. Recently introduced to the Santa Barbara, Calif. market, RND is custom-made at a craft distillery in Colorado, a region known for its exceptionally pure Rocky Mountain water. Distillation of the corn-based spirit occurs 10 times through a continuous glass column still, resulting in a product that is simply ethereal in flavor.
www.rndvodka.com

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Move Over Turkey. Bring on the Pumpkin!

The pumpkin is a master of disguise. Cloaked in cream, eggs, or cheese, it can cleverly conceal its nutritious bounty. Dressed judiciously, however, its role as a wholesome food becomes easily recognizable.

Rich in fiber, potassium, and beta-carotene (an antioxidant that may help prevent heart disease and certain types of cancer), it can be a welcome guest at any health-conscious diner’s table. At only 80 calories per cup, it’s no wonder most jack-o’-lanterns smile.

This plump, wholesome fruit has been featured on Thanksgiving menus for almost 400 years, yet our modern recipe bears little resemblance to the pilgrim’s svelte original. Capitalizing on its naturally delicious flavor, the colonists simply stewed the squash with vinegar, brown sugar, and cinnamon, or filled it with milk and baked it whole. Many of us, however, like to laden our pumpkin with extra fat and calories—a difference that costs us an average of 14 grams of fat and 300 hundred calories per serving. With its buttery texture and subtle, earthy sweetness, pumpkin doesn’t require an army of rich ingredients to make it taste delicious. Often, one small pat of butter and sprinkling of fresh herbs or brown sugar will do.

While fresh pumpkin is available only a few months per year, the canned variety is a year-round resident at your local supermarket—giving you great reason to incorporate it into your daily diet. Not only is canned pumpkin undoubtedly easy to prepare—a couple twists of the can opener and you’re done—it’s just as nutritious as its fresh counterpart. It also tends to be more consistent in texture and flavor, making it the preferred choice for baking. But don’t think you need to reserve pumpkin solely for baking sweets; its versatile flavor complements savory dishes, too.

Once a can of pumpkin has been opened, place the unused portion in an airtight container, and store it either in the refrigerator for up to one week, or in the freezer for up to three months. But with its ample health benefits and appeasing flavor, it’s unlikely you’ll have leftovers.

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Singita's Boulder Lodge, South Africa

Leopard sightings are common at the superlative Singita Boulders Lodge on the banks of the Sabi Sand River on the western border of Kruger National Park, where a perennial flow of water and groves of acacia and marula trees attracts a wealth of wildlife.

Luxury is the word of choice here, where 12 spacious suites (including two double family suites) feature their own private game-viewing deck with heated plunge pool, spacious bathroom, double-sided fireplace, indoor/outdoor showers, and vast, floor-to-ceiling savannah views. The dramatic African terrain has been infused into the interior design, in a palette of stonework; rich, chocolate brown leather; textured fabrics; and hand-felled wood furnishings. After a awe-inspiring day of safari in the African bush, birdwatching (over 400 species can be found here), or a rejuvenating sea mud wrap at the spa, guests can enjoy a superb fusion of Asian, pan-African, and modern European cuisine beneath the lantern-lit trees at twilight or in the stonewalled, candlelit dining room. Three meals a day are included in the room rate, as are all wine and spirits, and guided safaris.

Sabi Sand Game Reserve
Kruger National Park
Mpumalanga province, South Africa
Lodge contact number: +27 (0)13 735 5456; US reservations: (212) 967 5895
Website: www.singita.com; reservations@singita.com

Photo Credit: Singita Boulders Lodge

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A Haven for South African Wines

Residing in Cape Town’s stylish Victoria & Alfred Waterfront district, the Wine Loft is a stellar feature at the new One&Only resort, where guests come to enjoy not only the most luxurious accommodations in the city, but also one of the largest collections of South African wines in the world.

Adjacent to Gordon Ramsay’s maze restaurant, the Wine Loft houses over 5,000 bottles of wine, including 450 labels and nearly 100 wines by the glass. Wines are organized by terroir and regional style—rather than labels and brand names—and include both rare, older vintages (Meerlust Rubicon 1993) and new, boutique-style offerings (Eben Sadie’s Palladius). At the Chef’s Table, guests can partake in a sumptuous,10-course, wine-paired meal or participate in special tasting sessions hosted by local wineries. For those wishing to expand their South African wine erudition, the One&Only's introductory Wines of the Cape course is an excellent option.

The Wine Loft
One&Only Cape Town
Dock Road
Victoria & Alfred Waterfront
Cape Town 8001, South Africa
Resort number: +27 21 431 5230; Reservations: (888) 877-7528
www.oneandonlyresorts.com

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Bruichladdich 21 Defines the End of an Era

With the prowess to impart rich, creamy, fruity nuances to Scotch whisky during the aging process, Spanish sherry casks have been utilized by whisky producers since the 19th century. But as the sale and production of sherry continues to decline, many whisky producers are preparing for the extinction of the sherry cask.

“It’s really the end of an era,” says Mark Reynier, managing director of Bruichladdich Distillery on Scotland’s Isle of Islay. In a commemorative wave farewell, Bruichladdich has released a limited-edition 21-year-old whisky, $240 for 700 ml, which has been aged in the distillery’s rare collection of oloroso sherry butts for more than two decades. The rich nose radiates candied orange peel, burnt caramel, and cinnamon bark. Non-chill filtering provides an exceptionally honest flavor profile of dried apricots, toasted walnuts, raisins, and dark chocolate. It is Bruichladdich’s richest, full-bodied Scotch whisky to date and will likely be one of the last sherry expressions it releases. (www.bruichladdich.com)

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The Epicurean Scribe

About

Sarah Doyle is a seasoned culinary professional with extensive journalism and marketing experience in food, spirits, wine, and travel. She has written for over 40 publications, including the New York Times, the Boston Globe, Gourmet, Wine & Spirits, Sunset, Saveur, Food & Wine, Town & Country, and Robb Report, among others.

A graduate of culinary school and Bruichladdich Distillery's Malt Whisky Academy, Sarah has developed original recipes for numerous publications, including Cooking Light, Self, Health, and Cooking Pleasures. When she is not traveling the world in search of new experiences and flavors, she can be heard singing the praises of single malt Scotch whisky and Rhone grape varietals.

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Bruichladdich 21 Defines the End of an Era

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